Rabbet Size for Back

Generally about half the thickness of the stock ... 1/2" in your case.

Like Swingman indicated, 1/2"

And this is how I do them

Called me old fashioned if you like. I'm from t'other side of the pond, so won't mind. Whatever happened to panel or moulding pins and a pin (toffee) hammer? I have used these on more delicate work. I imagine these would work perfectly well in the work you describe. Could be wrong. Frequently am. Never used a nail gun. Hope I never will. Also hope to see brass screws used in my coffin.

Nick.

This could make assembly interesting. Art

As others have posted, half way will usually do the job although I have gone wider with no problem. In many cases (yes, I know) it is not necessary to use any more mechanical fasteners than those required to keep things square and the back and sides in contact until glue dries. On occasion, just to change things up, I've skipped the sheetgoods back entirely and done something fancier

Maybe I'm using the terms wrong (even aside from whether dado is only cross-grain). Groove all around, like a drawer bottom. Slide in the back. Attach the last of the sides, as joinery of choice allows. I'd as soon have dovetailed the top, which would do this fine, I think. It is just that I have yet to cut my first dovetail.

Many useful mistakes learned on this project. At least that's what I try to tell myself.

Nail guns have added a whole new way for the wood work to go to the hospital. You can shoot nails into your hand, your arm, and fingers. If you try real hard you can shoot them into you assistant.

You really should try one. ;-)

I live in North Carolina and have never had one. Like you I can put nails in more accurately with an hammer of a size appropriate to the task.

I watched the man build my garden shed and in there place that significantly speed up the construction process.

Let me attest that they let me prove what I didn't know much faster that I otherwise would have.

I considered a hammer and brads/tacks for the back on this thing, but was intimidated by my lack of speed while the glue set up. That's largely filed under: beginner with no experience on how long the open time really is.

This wasn't just a "brads until the glue sets" thing. I want the back on this case to protect against the sides bowing out, so want a connectuon stronger than I know i can expect from the glue. I also know that means I should have a better design to avoid bowing.

The thing is, at every snag I stop, walk away and redesign the whole damned thing. As a result, this project has been procrastinated longer than I'd like to admit. That wouldn't be a problem, except that this is supposed to be for my wife to use. She is very patient, but the delay is becoming a joke that is only funny to one of us.

In hindsight, my first project that is too big to throw across the room shouldn't have been for someone else who is waiting.

Absolutely. That's all I use (18 ga 1/4" crown staples, fired from the same, dual purpose, brad nailer) for attaching backs to most cabinets.

Each crown staple has at least twice the holding power of a single brad, and if appearance is an issue you can always use some thin trim in a judicious manner.

Geez, in addition to gluing I fasten down with washer head screws. I guess that's a little overkill, eh? But my projects have been more utilitarian in nature and not fine furniture (yet). I'm lurking here to find out the reasonable way to do things.

-- John S.

Well I always assume that I might want to change a back some day, to another contrasting shade and or replace with a mirror. I screw my backs in.

So, you used frame & panel construction for the back instead of a sheet of ply? Cool! Is there just the intermediate stile, or are there also intermediate rails? I can't quite tell. I don't suppose you have a pic or drawing to share.

John S.

It's Leon, John ... trust me, that boy does nothing without a SketchUp drawing. So if you ask him nicely ... :)

Before I get another chance to forget, thanks to all that I haven't already thanked.

Much to learn. Much to do.

If you have Sketch up I can send you the file and you can explore all day. ;~)

Just let me know.

Actually John I have gravitated to a front AND back face frame on my last several cabinets, 10 so far.

Both face frames receive the cabinet sides, tops, and bottoms with dado's. And the tops and bottoms of the sides receive the top and bottom of the cabinets in dado's also. This makes for an extremely ridged case even with out a back. For the front face frames I attach the rails to the stiles with floating tenons/Dominoes. Other than the mortise and tenons these are simple butt joints.

For the back face frames I use a lap joint reinforced with the Dominoes also. Similar to a half lap joint but 1/2" on one side and 1/4" on the other and I cut rabbits on all inside sides of the back face frames to receive the back 1/4" plywood panels.

I screw the 1/4" plywood back panels into those rabbits with 1/2" long self tapping washer head screws.

Yes, there are both outer stiles and a centered face frame stiles in most cases and in some cases a mid face frame rail if i want a fixed mid shelf.

Take a look here of cabinets with mid rails.

The top units have 4 glass doors and have a fixed mid shelf with mid rails front and back. The bottom closed in cabinets with top drawers have a mid rail only on the front to separate the drawer and bottom doors. The bottom back face frame has no mid rail.

Top cabinets

back to daydreaming on the couch.

When I hit the lottery, I want you to do my kitchen.

Ya, I have Sketchup, though I don't know what to do with it yet. ;) I will be going through Bob Lang's stuff hopefully tonight and get his book. I appreciate all the detail advice.

John S.