installing cedar shingles.

[ezalpha]

Can I install cedar shingles directly on the 7/16" OSB plywood sheathing on the backyard shed I built. Rafters are 16 .o.c. Or do I have to strap with

1 x 3" and attach the shingles to the strapping? Dave

[Dave Jackson]

You can install directly to the osb. Make sure the fasteners you use penetrate the shake and all the way through the osb, just as roofing nails would. This will keep the fastener from working it's way out. --dave

[dondone]

The 1x slats,w appropriate gaps but w/o solid sheathing, are commonally used in wet climates like the Pacific northwest of the US. This lets air circulate better in and around wood shakes & shinges to promote quicker drying for longer life. Keeping them damp promotes mildew growth. Here in the US southwest, wood shakes (we don't see many wood shingles) are applied directly over sheathing like your OSB since moisture is not a problem.

[Slowhand]

Make sure to install tar paper over the osb before you put the shingles on. SH

[ezalpha]

Thanks. I bought the 1 x3 and was going to strap it. Then I read where it's best to sheath about 2' around the perimeter of the roof surface and strap inside that. One said use tarpaper and another said don't use tarpaper because it can trap moisture on the underside. In the end, I sheathed the whole thing. The main determinant for me is that it's getting cold. I finished the sheathing today, but it's only about 38 degrees. If I can just get the shingling done before the snow flies I'll be happy. Another question - the building supply sold me 1 1/2" galvanized nails for the shingling, but I'd like to avoid all that hammer work. Is there a type of air-powered nailer and fastener I can use. I'd rent an ashphalt shingle nailer, but everything I've read says shingles (shakes) are easily split, and I think an ordinary asphalt-type shingle nail might split the shake.

Dave

[PDQ]

An air nailer can do the job if you get the air pressure low enough. I mannaged to put 1 1/4 inch brads into 1/4 inch plywood without going = past the finish layer by setting the gun pressure to 50 psi instead of = my usual 90 psi. At 90 the brads went clear through to the substrata. = Just waste a few nails in a test shingle.

Shingle nails are usually blunt ended so they punch through the shingle = rather than part it. The latter action can cause a shingle to split.

--=20

PDQ

| >=20 |=20 |

[ezalpha]

Thanks PDQ ref the brad nailer. If I understand it my normal 1 1/4 " brads ( I think 16 ga but maybe they're 18) is what you're suggesting? Brads look like they're made of aluminum, so they wouldn't rust. I'm not too worried about condensation or mould. This is just a backyard shed I've built and it won't have any plumbing (but I am starting to think about insulation and maybe an electric baseboard heater. One of my aims is to move my table saw and jointer activity out of the basement (for dust reasons). Another was to move out all the lawn and garden stuff that makes parking the cars in the garage a challenge. Now I'm starting to think

An air nailer can do the job if you get the air pressure low enough. I mannaged to put 1 1/4 inch brads into 1/4 inch plywood without going past the finish layer by setting the gun pressure to 50 psi instead of my usual

90 psi. At 90 the brads went clear through to the substrata. Just waste a few nails in a test shingle.

Shingle nails are usually blunt ended so they punch through the shingle rather than part it. The latter action can cause a shingle to split.

[PDQ]

Sorry to mis-advise. I did not mean for you to use a brad nailer. It = was only for an example of what can be done.

For your shingles, use a proper nail gun and shingle nails. P-C has = them in coils. In any event, be sure to turn down the air pressure at = the gun as 90 psi will blow right through the shingles.

I can appreciate your saw removal. I got mine into the basement in = pieces. Now I hesitate to take them apart to get them out.

To rip an 8 foot board you need 8 feet before and after the saw. To = cross-cut you need the same on the sides. Makes for 16X16 and 20X20 = would be best. No matter how big the shed, the table saw goes in the = middle and all the other stuff goes along the walls.

If you put the saw on wheels, you can manage in a 10X14 as long as you = get the saw outside before firing it up and use the shed as an outfeed = location for ripping.

--=20

PDQ

| | >

| | | |=20 |=20 |

[dondone]

The old pro's tell you that you should hand nail wood shingles and shakes so as to get just the right set: not enough to dent the shingle, but enough to just hold the shingle firm. I think that a roofing nail is not the answer since they are too large in diameter. I would think a regular nail, about

6d and galvanized would do fine. That is what was used for my 20 year-old shakes that I removed before re-shaking. In spite of that, around here (Phoenix) and in Seattle the roofers use staples applied with an air powered stapler to install shakes. Not sure what they use for wood shingles.

[Tom]

someone wrote: >In spite of that, around here

We use the same set-up, shorter shanked staples with a 1/2 inch crown. On walls, mansards and the like, stainless fasteners are preferred. You'll not get dark oxide stains that way. There's a nifty mesh underlayment made to install under cedar, allowing ventilation when they're installed over ply. Tom Work at your leisure!

[Slowhand]

I live on the north oregon coast and use tar paper. Have for 20 years. I think we are the moisture capital of the world .

We use narrow crown air staplers. Because of our close proximity to the ocean, we use 1 1/2"stainless. Spendy buggers! I don't know if you get much wind in your area but if you do, stay away from brads of any sort. A good windstorm will find you gathering up kindling from your yard. Ask me how I know this. . If you do choose to hand nail it, I would reccomend a 5 penny shingle nail. Just ask for them at your local building center. Happy shingling! SH

[ezalpha]

Further to my roofing effort. I'm not trolling, just a duffer. The shingles I bought are No2 sawn shakes. Now that I'm ready to start the actual shingling, I notice the bundle has mostly wide shakes. My question: Do you have to lay out the shingles according to width, or just start installing. The bundle has wide shakes almost exclusively, on the top couple of layers at least. I realize there comes a point where (approaching a gable end for example) you have to split a shake to make it fit. What I'm not sure is whether you would also split a shake in the center of a course for no other reason than to break up a pattern of all wide shakes, except for a skinny one on the end. Hope this makes sense. BTW really happy with my new Bostich stick framing nailer. Did manage to shoot myself in the pointing finger this weekend though. No real damage, just a painful lesson. Leaked all over the nifty framing gloves that came with it. None the less, I having fun. Wife doesn't appreciate quality work. She just thinks I'm slow.

EA

[Nova]

You want to use a width shingle so that the butt seam of the next shingle will be offset from that in the previous row.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

[J]

Wide shingles cup and split more than the narrow ones. Mix them up and pick one that fits the requirement that it cover the joint in the previous course.

-j

[SteveC1280]

Before you start read this:

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