I have a need for a 2x8x27' ridge beam on a garage gable roof. I want to do
it by splicing two 2x8x14's together. I've seen a few sagging splices over
the years and I really want to do it right. What Simpson hardware is used to
do that? The garage is 21 x 27 and uses 2x6 rafters 16" o.c. (4/12 pich),
2x8 ceiling joists 16" o.c., and this 2x8 ridge.
Only a structural ridge (think cathedral ceiling) experiences any
appreciable load. Splicing a ridge needn't be furniture work.
You can butt the rafter pieces together so it falls between a pair of
opposing rafters, or have the join end up between pairs of rafters (my
preference). I use wood blocking to hold the two pieces in alignment
as the rafters go up. There really isn't any hardware required, but if
you wanted to you could use a mending plate.
If the roof has any kind of overhang, I'd use the ridge board out there too.
Layout the ridge board for rafter placement in pencil and framing square.
Make the splice in the middle of two rafters. Use one 2X8 scab on both
sides of the splice. Cut a bevel on top of the scabs to match the 4 on 12
pitch. Use an offset stringline to maintain up and down straightness for
the ridge, and straightness in regards to perpendicular to the rafters.
Should not be needed however if both outside walls are braced, and are
straight and level, and rafters are identical. The ridge board should have
a little crown to it, but not excessive, with crown up of course.
If working alone or minimal help, probably would have been easier to have a
joist beam in the middle of the garage. The beam could temporarily, and/or
permanently hold up the ridge until the rafters are in place. 2X6s would be
adequate for the ceiling joists in that case.
Has been my experience when two ridge boards tie in at a rafter, the nails
tend to overextend the rafter end. And the end of the ridge boards too.
That is, too many nails in too small an area. Have seen nothing in code
regarding where a ridge end should "die", on the rafter or scabbed inbetween
rafters. So, I've always gone with my perspective of "common sense". It
sure does look purty when splicing at a rafter though. And, that seems to
be the prevailing method for some unapparent other than esthetic reason. I
sure don't know what that reason is.
"Glenn" < email@example.com> wrote in message
I'm in the Northeast. I'm not sure if it's a regional thing or not,
but I know most of the framers around here do it your way. I don't
like that method as there's too much going on in too small of an area.
There can easily be a dozen nails or more, and maybe some metal
connectors. Nailing that close to the end of a board with that many
nails is guaranteed to cause some splitting. I don't like splitting.
It's probably not a big deal structurally, but it's a weak point in the
rafter/ridge connection. Butting the ridge pieces together and using
some blocking to hold them together while the rafters are set doesn't
have those problems and doesn't take any more time.
I guess someone should ask why the OP doesn't consider using a 7 1/2 x
28 LVL. if you're angsting about splices, you wouldn't need them.
I'm wondering where in the country they are still using such an old
timey system anyway? I have never built a modern house (except for a
small outbuilding or two) that didn't either use trusses or a
structural ridge. I didn't think engineers would touch such a thing
with a 10 foot pole anyway. Definitely not a labor saver!
You could get by with a 1x ridge board (it's pretty much a non-structural
member), but can you get 20' lumber in 2x8 in your area? From Table
R802.4(1) of the IRC, the ceiling joists are not going to go the 19'-3" in
SPF unless you go with Select Structural. (That's for an attic without
storage.) If your in the western states, Doug Fir is ok in #1 grade.
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