I'm working on a hall wall worth of shelves and cabinets (see
a.b.p.w. The Next to the Next Off The Wall Project) and, rather
than take them to the floor and do moulding around the base,
I want to hang them 8 to 10" off the floor. I'll avoid doing a
boatload of miterer corners and coping - and make it easy to
get the dust bunnies that appear out of nowhere and hide
under things that make if difficult to capture and remove
them with a vacuum cleaner.
I like the idea of "french cleats" for hanging stuff off the wall.
I made wooden ones to hang the two wall hanging tool cabinets
in the shop. But for my first "house" furniture, I don't want
to screw two halves of a ripped 2x4 into the studs on the
wall and waste hall space to accomodate them in the back
of the shelves.
SO - I saw some "z clips" in aluminum on the Lee Valley site
The tallest shelf unit will be 6' tall, 28" wide and 12" deep.
It'll be out of english sycamore which has a density in
the rock maple range - about 46 pounds/cubic foot and
the shelf wood will be about 2.2 cubic feet - about 100
pounds - without any books. The books could add another
I'm only going to be able to catch two studs to screw into
and the Z clip stock is 3 1/8" tall by 3/16" thick so I can
get two screws into each stud.
So my question:
Will these things support 200+ pounds if done as described
above? I REALLY don't want this thing to come off the wall
- figuratively and literally.
above? I REALLY don't want this thing to >come off the wall - figuratively and
Charlie, I think the first thing I would do would be to call LV and
ask. They seem to have a pretty good track record of knowing their
On the other hand, I think at those prices I might just order some
product and test it myself. Try a simple shelf loaded up and see how
it does. I think I would go to a fastener company and get some real
screws too, not the super soft trash sold at the big box or hardware
A couple of hundred pounds seems a bit light for me considering the
sizes of books I have. A six foot tall cab that is over two feet wide
loaded with Twain, Dickens, Dumas, Sabtini, C.S, Forester and my
Eastman publications would add to 100 lbs by about the fourth shelf.
As always, just my 0.02.
Looking at the drawings I know how I would do it. I would probably
use something like the Z clips on the top. But on the bottom, I would
set a piece of wood right on top of the baseboard trim and screw it
through the sheetrock into the studs.
This would give you a shear cleat that rests on the baseboard (I would
add screws to that as well). When installing, you could lift up the
piece, place it on the wall, and let it go straight down into
position. The clips would hold the top as well as keeping it from
tipping out, and the cleat would hold the bottom.
Like a good upper kitchen cabinet, I would leave a nail strip along
the bottom and screw that into the studs, too.
The one board you have for your cleat can be painted to match your
existing trim. With your cabinet at 12" of protrusion and only 8 -
10" off the wall, no one would see the cleat unless they got down on
their hands and knees.
Your width only has to be wide enough to pass your screw points by an
inch or so, meaning that the cleat doesn't necessarily have to be full
Attaching this way, you would have four screws in the base board as
reinforcement, four nice sized screws in the cleat (or more), and two
screws through the nail strip to hold the cabinet in place. All would
None would be visible with a little forethought, of which you seem to
Once again, my 0.02.
When doubt could you use a double row of these for double strength?
Alternatively, Rockler sells these and also sells steel cleats claiming,
Hardened steel for outstanding strength and durability. 18'' in length.
Protrudes 7/16'' from wall when pieces are assembled.
Also, did you get my e-mail? I was inquiring to see if you might be
interested in a better 24 page Domino owners manual in pdf format? Festool
e-mailed it to me and I would be glad to send it to you.
I've used these Rockler cleats. Right now, a set of them is holding up a
loaded handplane cabinet in my shop. 48" tall, 12" deep, 36" wide. There
are maybe 2 dozen planes there, plus saws, measuring tools, mallets, etc.
The cleats are strong enough.
This place is like magic. Ask a question and get three, four or five
solutions to the problem you're asking about. Am going to try several
of the suggestions ( have six shelves/cabinets to hang). Will go with
masonry/concrete screws because they're a lot harder and stronger
than the silverish - whatever they're made of - screws. Sheet rock
screws - nope.
Thanks for the options.
I would be really careful using drywall screws in a load-bearing
situation. Too many horror-stories.
Good screws aren't all that expensive...I recently used some of the Spax
ones from LV and they work nicely. Haven't personally ordered from
McFeeley, but have heard good things about them.
> I have used 3/4 inch plywood for "french cleats" using 3" drywall
> screws with a fender washer. Putting the screws into studs I think you
> will be ok, just span two studs minimum.
Personally, have absolutely no faith using drywall screws in a load
I like #14, coarse thread, self tapping, pan head, sheet metal screws,
at least 2-1/2" long complete with with fender washers to spread the load.
SFWIW, #14 screw is about 1/4" thread OD.
Use a 3/16" pilot hole drill, drive them with a screw gun, and you are
good to go.
You have my couriousity. Why not use dry screws on a load bearing wall for
hanging a French cleat? What difference does it make whether the wall is
load bearing or not?
You don't have to explain to me that there are better screws for this type
application, I have been using square drive screws since the 80's.
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