On 5/19/2015 10:31 PM, Bill wrote:
> All of this just a guess--Bill.
It is not just you in this thread ... but why bother to offer "advice",
and geometrical conjecture on a tool, with regard to how it must be
constructed, sharpened and used, which you have neither owned nor used?
Damned good thing the "advice" you requested and received from
knowledgeable folks here on your own projects the last few years was not
on such shaky ground, eh?
Not to be picking on you alone, but what is exhibited in the particular
thread is NOT what kept the wRec a valuable resource for many years.
Looking back at my first post in this thread, I got sucked in by a math
problem... We are "community" first, "service" second, no? Few needs
seem to go unfulfilled (expect maybe that time folks banded together to
refuse to comment on how I planned to wire an AC motor!).
Thanks to Lew, I even have a spading fork this year, which I had never
even heard of before it was mentioned..
Exactly - the corner chisel is just like any other chisel, so
you'd use the same grits as you would for the same task on a
regular chisel. Something pretty fine if you just need a light
honeing, otherwise work up thru the grits. Diamond hones are
good because you can get them in small sizes (with safe edges)
that easily fit the bevel. As dadiOH says, you can glue silicon
carbide sandpaper to popsicle sticks for the same result.
I think this is one of those tools where you don't want to
touch the backs. Granted, the shape isn't as critical as
something like a Forstner bit, but I think I'd just work the
bevel, unless there was an obvious problem with the backs.
It would be a weird shaped block. I'd do both sides seperately.
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