On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 15:37:04 GMT, "Troy Hall"
You want consensus on a single best answer ? You'll be lucky...
I'd start by crosscutting the strip to 3' lengths, just for ease of
handling. Maybe longer if you have a spacious shop and long arms.
As a general rule, do the awkward jobs first, then do the rest,
finally turn it into small pieces that become hard to handle.
I'd do it by ripping the thin strip off against the fence. This is
easy, and the cutting is safe - so long as it can't go "down the slot"
into the insert, and so long as the fence isn't skewed and going to
bind it. As it's only 1/8" thick, binding in the kerf won't be a
problem (unless that fence is skewed)..
I wouldn't do this without a zero-clearance (or damn near it) insert.
I'd also get the dial gauge out and check alignment of the fence
against the blade (or both against the mitre slot).
The hard part is getting the thin strip safely out past the blade. If
it's long enough , it should come out easily enough. If it isn't, use
a "top sled", or a very thin push stick from above.
Personally I'd use a push stick from the side and let gravity drop the
thin strip out, just because visibility is better. I'd cut a new one
from scrap specially for this job, and I'd lose 1/8" off the nose with
A top sled is a flat sled that goes on the top of the timber, with a
handle on top, rubber or foam underneath, and a ledge at the tail.
They're great for cutting a few thin slices off a wide board, really
dangerous if the remainder starts to become narrower then the height
of the board, because it might tip over and drop the sled onto the top
of the blade. I don't like these things much....
With the strips thin, I'd cut the 1" dimension (this is easy).
Finally I'd clamp a stop into the crosscut box, then crosscut them all
to length. I'd happily cross-cut a stack of half-a-dozen at a time.
Be careful when removing offcuts with the saw still running - only do
this if your crosscut box has a fully shrouded tunnel and you retract
the blade right into it.