My friend just gives me his dinner table. The table is covered with
hardwood veneers. Unfortunately, the seam where two veneers joined is
slightly delaminated. The edge of the two veneers are still glued
together; but the two edges have losed contact with the wood underneat
the veneers. Therefore, the seam is slightly higher than the table
top. The affected areas are very small: 2 seams that are 5 inches long
each. Strangely, only the middle area of the seam has this problem,
the two ends of each seam are OK.
My questions are:
- What caused this problem? Did this have something to do with
placing hot pots in the middle of the table?
- Will this problem extend to the full length of the seam?
- What should I do to fix this? I know I should not sand the seam
down because the veneer is likely to be very thin.
- Should I splice open the seam and use a syringe to inject some glue
under the seam? What type of glue is appropriate? I guess I need some
fast curing glue, right? I will not be able to clean the glueing
surface before applying glue on it. Will the glue hold?
Thanks in advance for any help.
I tried ironing the area; but it didn't have any effect. At this
point, I can live with this because the area is small and is not
obvious. Glad to know that this problem will not extend further. I
will put a new coat of finish over the entire table to protect it.
On 17 Oct 2006 08:07:36 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You can measure the thickness of the substrate and drill a hole from
the bottom that just barely comes through the substrate (not through
The hole must be large enough for the needle of the glue syringe that
you will buy from one of the woodworking supply houses.
After drilling the hole, stick the shop vac hose over the hole to suck
out any detritus.
Put some yellow glue in the syringe and push some glue into the void
between the substrate and the bubbled veneer.
Withdraw the syringe and duct tape a paper towel on the hole to catch
the glue that will be squeezed out in the next step.
Gently push on the bubbled veneer to press the glue into all areas of
the void, then use a J roller or a rolling pin to press the bubble
down flat and then put down a piece of plastic wrap and then a flat
piece of plywood on which you will set weights for a period of 24
Properly done the fix will be invisible and permanent.
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
Yours is a very clever way to fix the problem. Fortunately or
unforunately the area that is slightly delaminated is very small --
meaning that the it doesn't bubble up far. I will have a hard time
control the drill depth not to punctuate the veneer. I think I am
better off leaving good enough alone and don't touch it.
I will keep a note on your very clever way to fix this kind of problem.
This may come in handy in the future. Thanks.
Though Tom's method would work well, the more usual method of doing this is
to use a small drill bit (#60 or so) and drill a hole at each end of the
bubble, through the veneer itself. Use a syringe to inject glue and proceed
as Tom outlines. No chance of overdrilling from the back and the holes are
so small it would take a very keen observer to ever see them.
I didn't realize that there is a well-established method to deal with
this problem. Thanks for pointing this out. What's the significance
of drilling two holes instead of just one? Does this have something to
do with using one hole to inject glue and another hole to let air to go
out? I assume I should rest the table on its side, and inject glue
into the upper hole and let the glue to flow downward toward the lower
hole using gravity alone, right?
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