Either someone did this with a BB gun, or I did this with my lawn mower,
but one of my windows (double-pane, removable inner pane) has a small
hole (maybe 1/4" in the middle of a 1/2" crater) and a couple of short
cracks radiating outward from the crater. This is (naturally) in the
outer pane. This is plate glass, about 1/8" thick.
I know that car windshield repair commercials show some sort of clear
liquid being injected into a windshield crater and makes the crater and
cracks disappear. I don't need the fancy equipment - just the liquid.
Anyone know what it is, and does the Home Despot (or other hardware
stores) sell it?
I know that's what it says, but cracked laminated glass is still broken
glass all the same. This stuff has to "stick" to glass and fill any
cracks in the glass - regardless if there's a layer of plastic in the
glass or not.
Did you ever try to patch or fill-in a crater-hole in thin plate glass
with this automotive resin stuff?
Or did you never have the opportunity or need to do so?
If you have first-hand experience with the failure of this automotive
repair resin on ordinary non-laminated plate glass, then I will pay
attention and carefully read your account of any such attempted use.
Lotsa luck in getting the resin in the cracks without pulling a vacuum
on the broken area. Google for a picture of how windshield star repairs
are done, maybe it will make sense to you. Go ahead and try- you can't
make it any worse.
And, it's not always as simple as some of those videos make it out to
be. When I was in the glass business I had a professional windshield
repair kit/machine, and it was still a PITA to get the resin to flown
into the cracks sometimes. There is a flexing technique that sometimes
has to be used. Sometimes you have to heat the inside of the
windshield with a small torch. Not just any "Joe Blow" can
successfully repair a stone chip. Especially with those kits from an
auto parts store.
Read it again- removable inner pane, not insulated glass. For OP- forget
it- there is no pretty repair. The car windshield repairs work because
they have a plastic center layer, and you can suck all the air out as
you are adding the plastic. No way to do that with air on both sides of
pane. If you can't afford to replace right now, just clean the area, and
apply clear tape over it- that should get you through the winter. If you
wanna disguise it, get one of those bird stickers that supposedly
prevent bird kamikaze attacks. But if you can remove the frame
containing the damaged glass to carry it in to the window shop, you may
be surprised how cheap the repair is.
I misread it too, but the bottom line is it can't be "repaired". It
needs to be replaced. And if it's the kind of Anderson that I think it
is, he will need a router, or be damn good with a hammer and wood
Ha....if he has a typical wooden Anderson from 25 yrs ago it's
probably an Anderson that you need a router to get the glass out. A
lot of the Andersons from that era (and earlier) built the frame
around the glass!
I believe there is only one brand. Andersen. I misspelled it. I just
know that when I first got into the glass business, the AnderSENS that
we had to replace the glass in didn't have any stops. We had to use a
router to replace the glass, and then pay a carpenter to come behind
us and do the rest.
Sigh. BTDT. Spent several months trying to chase down parts for
1961-vintage Andersen crank-out casements when preparing my
Grandmother's house for sale. Never did find all the parts, but found
enough to make the place presentable. Outer panes on those were held by
putty, though- I think they were before the assemble-frame-around-glass
era. The removable inner panes were exactly as described, though.
Why should it matter whether or not there's a plastic layer buried
somewhere inside the broken / cracked glass?
If this resin is supposed to flow into cracks and seal them, adhere or
bond the cracked surfaces together, then we're still talking about a
glass-to-glass interface that needs bonding / sealing.
This is in a small commercial building that does not have a humidifier
as part of the HVAC system, so there will not be any fogging.
Because you can't pull a vacuum on a single pane of glass.
You have a hole through the glass and runs. All you will be doing is
sucking air. Not to mention that the resin goes into the syringe
before you do anything.
Syringe adapter with double-sided tape goes directly over the impact
point. Then you add the resin. With nothing but a hole there, the
resin has nowhere to go but on the ground.
I guess (and this is a big guess) you could try to put a piece of tape
on the opposite side on the impact point and runs to try and draw a
vacuum, but then you might make the runs get even bigger when you
apply pressure to the tape and glass. I doubt this would work anyway,
because as soon as you put the kit/syringe on the pressure cycle it
will probably start to push the tape free. Hell, just putting the
syringe adapter in place could cause the glass to run out. At least on
a laminated piece of glass you have some support from the other piece
If you have your mind made up that you aren't going to replace this
piece of glass, then just fill the hole with some clear silicone. That
will take care of the hole. The runs may never ever spread. Only time
Why can't I create a vacuum on one side of the glass (with the right
combination of suction cup and syringe) while applying the resin from
the other side?
There would be no lamination layer in the middle to act as a barrier.
How thick or viscous is this resin? I take it that it's not like that
acrylic plastic resin that just runs all over the place into all the
cracks without much effort. ?
And besides, how often do you actually fill a hole in a car windshield,
vs just a crack pattern?
In my case, I've got a hole that's about 3/16" diam. in the middle of a
crater that's about 1/2" diam, with maybe 2 short cracks about an inch
long running from the hole into the glass in 2 different directions.
Can this automotive resin form a patch to fill in the hole and crater?
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