How Many Inches of Straight Edge?

Mine's 49 inches: Perfect for 4 x 8 sheets.

Drawing a line across a 4x8 plywood sheet comes to mind. Also, only have to move it once to draw a line down the length of a 4x8 sheet. A two footer would be moved at least 3 times.

I have a 6" -- a cabinet ruler that is. Is that good enough? :-))

P>

I can use a strip of baltic birch for that sort of straight edge. I'm talking about those that are accurate to 0.001" per 2 feet, as sold by Lee Valley/Veritas. I think the primary use is checking flatness on joiner beds and finished surfaces.

Things bigger than 24".

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Sorry I asked.

Fri, Feb 11, 2005, 1:36pm (EST-3) snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Never=A0Enough=A0Money) asks: I think the two footers are sufficient. Am I right? What would the 50" straigt edge be used for? Tables?

Well, if you can't figure that out on your own, I sure can't help you.

JOAT Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.

- David Fasold

Fri, Feb 11, 2005, 5:07pm snipped-for-privacy@devnull.spamcop.net (Pop) says: No, I won't get dressed. I'm retired!

This is NOT me, posting under an alias.

JOAT Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.

- David Fasold

What's the longest single piece of iron in your shop? Seems the best answer to me. And it sure isn't for woodworking use where it's going to be subject to drops/ accidental bends or anything similar. You can't cut as straight as it can touch, so why obsess?

For machine set up I would love to have a 36" or 48" guaranteed straight to half a red cubic hair.

For general wooddorking (running a router/circle saw against) I like a 24"/30", a 36", a 50"/54" and a 120". Of course these are 6"(ish) wide rips off a sheet of MDF/plywood so I'm not looking for anything closer than

UA100

The longest I have is the 50" Veritas from Lee Valley. After testing it on a granite surface plate (8'), it was accurate to 0.001 over its length. I use it to setup my jointer and many other uses where accuracy is important. I use the 24" steel straight edge for most things but the 50" is a handy addition to my ever expanding tool inventory!

Dave

I really can't think of any reason to use such an acurate straight edge in the shop. Even a cheap 4 foot aluminum level will be adaquet for all jobs.

I suppose you could use one to check the flatness of an infeed/outfeed on a joiner, but if the cast iron was not true there's little you could do to correct it anyway. I recommend saving the money spent on an acurate straight edge and buy something you can really use, like more clamps, router bits, etc.

I agree there. Consider using a rule accurate to .001 to draw a line with a pencil tip that is off by much more than that. Doesn't make sense to me.

Vic

Thanks you, Dave, for not giving me a wise ass answer like some of the other posters. The Veritas straight edges are that expensive so I don't know why my question evokes such snide remarks. I tend to agree with you...

I went with the 38" version myself. Just got it a week or so ago so can't comment on it's useful/useless - ness just yet. I figured for setting up the table saw, RAS, Jointer, etc... I just didn't need anything longer. Heck, the 24" would probably work for those things. Cheers, cc

I always wondered what the 'C' in RCH stood for! Thanks! Now, I'm trying to imagine how one gets a cubic hair, red or otherwise... Of course, with my previous understanding of what 'C' stood for, I'm still trying to acquire some of those as well...

TWS

I use 150" straight edges from Pinske .005 over the 12-ft length.

Smaller ones are available.

The 8-footer is .002" Plenty accurate for my needs.

Another solution, which I have suggested here before, is to find a supplier of standard aluminum extrusions. You pay for those by the pound. An 8-foot 1/4" x 6" cost me about 50 CAN$ and was very straight.

Rob

I have some in my teeth! Want some? :D Mine are brown though, not red.