I have a $30 from HF, and of course, it is not perfect and it takes a little
bit more time to setup, but I saved $70 on the next cheapest tool.. way
enough to get more stuff like a good gouge for my lathe....
my hobby time is not worse the extra money of a 'good' tool...
<dan> wrote in message
I think you did well for yourself. The handful of Ryobi
powertools I've had the misfortune to use over the years have
all been utter and total Crap(tm). I only ever bought one
myself, and that was enough of a learning experience to teach
me about 'false economy' and to do better next time.
There may be exceptions, but I haven't struck one yet; nor am I
likely to :-P
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
I have a Ryobi variable speed drill that I bought mainly as a cheap
second drill for countersinking. It does that job just fine.
Occasionally the bubble level on the back end comes in handy.
For $50, it's done its duty.
Well, it may be overkill, not sure of the difference in ease of use, accuracy,
etc. in the 2 tools..
I wasn't sure that I would use biscuits, but wanted to try 'em, so a few years
ago I bought the "best" model that Harbor freight had, on sale for 1/2 price.. I
think I paid about $30..
I did some playing with it and a couple of small projects and realized a few
Biscuits are cool and I'll never use a dowel in a joint again...
never glue the biscuits into one side and then try to assemble the joint..
The HF tool was well worth the price and worked well, but I needed a few more
features, like and adjustable fence and such..
As I was in the middle of a few months of very anal comparison research, my wife
bought me the Sears tool.. (DeWalt in a black case, I think)
It's been very good to me and I like it..
If it has any accuracy problems, I can't tell.. might be own skill level?
Have I mentioned that I'm a turner and don't usually do anything with corners or
Please remove splinters before emailing
Years ago I bought the Ryobi. At the time it was around $80.00. After
using it a few times with poor results due to the slop in the slot it
cut I gave it away and bought the Porter Cable at $190.
You probably saved yourself $100 by getting the better joiner first.
I have never heard a person complain about the
high quality tools he owns, but if you hang around
here long enough, you will hear a good bit of whining
about how their new $30 "whatever" is a real POS.
Never regret buying good... You want to have good
tools at the estate sale don't you ???
Sure, but we all have our budgets...
I might WANT to get a Rolls-Royce (okay, not really, but for arguments
sake) but may only have the budget for a lexus.
I've definitely checked out the Festools at my local Woodcraft and
maybe someday I will upgrade that direction.
In the meantime I have managed to put together the start of what I
hope to be fairly decent powe tool collection for my shop.
2 porter cable routers (690 and a 7518 Speedmatic mounted to a cast
iron router table extension on my ridgid table saw)
A small bosch colt router
Delta 10" drill press
And a number of other assorted and sundry power tools which I plan to
upgrade over time as budget allows.
Right now the mounted speedmatic is the powertool I use most (aside
from my cordless drills (Makita and Ryobi litium), and it makes
wonderful quick work of dadoes even in oak. Just got a katana cabinet
making set of bits and will be seeing how my setup works for panel
As I expect to make a number of new bookcases and cabinets for my
house in the near future, the biscuit joiner upgrade will probably be
my next and from the feedback and what I have experienced with my
other Porter-Cable tools, I think I will lean in that direction.
Thanks everyone for your input and feedback...
"EVERYbody Eats when they come to MY house!"
Excuse me for drifing on-topic!
If you want a plate jointer to make cabinets then I'd recommend you
try out pocket screws first (if you haven't already). You can build
entire cabinets with pocket screws and they hold better than biscuits
will. Plus no clamping. For kitchen cabinets, put pocket screws on
the outside of the carcass to attach face frames. No pocket holes are
visible after they're installed. Cabinets sides visible at the end of
a run can be covered with a panel. That makes scribing the end
cabinet to the wall a lot easier too.
I'd also rather use headless pins over biscuits for attaching face
frames. A pin driven 35 degrees from the back (side into face) will
virtually be invisible. Just up the PSI a bit over what's recommended
to countersink the pin. If the hole still bothers you then leave
sawdust in it after sanding and you'll never see it.
Biscuits work well for edge joining pieces but I'm finding them less
useful than I thought I would.
I actually do have a full Kreg pocket hole jig setup and have used it
for some items so far, but have ended up doing more with
biscuits...not that I might not change that in the future...
"EVERYbody Eats when they come to MY house!"
Wow is that so wrong about never complaining about quality.
I have been so disappointed with my Delta purchases.
I bought an American made 14" Band saw and it was a POS. No alignment
until I took the pins out.
I bought a Delta Contractor saw. ... The table is so dished.
I bought a Lie Nielsen low angle block plane, and there is a defect in
the blade. At first it looked like a little line.. but as I sharpen it,
I can now see the line was a void in the metal. Now I don't even need a
magnifier or loupe to see that it is a void.
When you pay more, it upsets you that the quality isn't what it should be.
Chef Juke wrote:
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