I do have AutoCAD, I just like to fiddle around without it whenever
possible. It's great when I need it and have a computer around, but I
don't always have a computer around when I'm working in the shop.
I see where the error was now (obviously on my end), I just had to
take the long, long way around it to get it straight in my head. But
at least I got it squared away, which is more important (to me) than
having made an ass of myself about it.
That is incorrect. By using the radius, you lay out six equilateral
triangles around the centre, each side being equal to the radius, with
internal angles being 60 degrees.
The difference between pi and 3 is the difference in length between the
straight line and the arc.
Hack to size. Hammer to fit. Weld to join. Grind to shape. Paint to cover.
[snip description of arc-and-compass construction of hexagon]
Nonsense. This produces a perfect hexagon, regardless of size.
Get out a piece of paper, a compass, a straightedge, and a pencil. Mark a
point in the middle of the paper. We'll call that point A. Set the compass to
any arbitrary radius, and draw a circle with its center at A. Now make a mark
at any arbitrary point on the circumference of the circle. Call it B. Draw a
straight line connecting A and B. Call its length R.
Set your compass on B and draw an arc intersecting the circle at one point.
Label it C. Draw a straight line between B and C. Its length is also R.
Likewise, connect A and C.
Now the interesting part: since A is the center of the circle, and C is a
point on its circumference, the distance between A and C is *also* R, and
therefore ABC is an equilateral triangle, and the angle BAC is 60 degrees.
Exactly one-sixth of a circle.
Put the point of the compass at C, and construct a new point D. Repeat four
more times. You've constructed a total of six equilateral triangles, each with
one vertex at the center of the circle, and its other two vertices on the
[snip description of workable but clumsy method]
That, of course, is why most folks just use a compass.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
On 29 Oct 2006 22:38:47 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
It's posted to ABPW as a jpg, under the heading "Hexagon Jig"
Didn't seem worth making a .pdf, as it's only one page.
If you don't have access to the binary groups for some reason (Google,
free newsserver, etc.) I can e-mail it to you if you like.
If "several" is not too many, I would just lay them out with pencil
lines and align the cut lines with the edge of a sled.
One of the handiest things I have made is a small sled, about 18"
front to back, with a single runner. For the width, I just ran runner
first in the left miter slot, then the right, so that either side
corresponds with the cut of the saw blade. I have several slots routed
in it to position hold downs, or sometimes just screw down a toggle
clamp where it is most needed.
It is easy to draw a hexagon with just a compass, if you don't know the
method google or ask.
No dumb questions, just dumb answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - email@example.com
The easiest way to draw an hexagon is...
The board you are cutting it out of find its middle down opposites sides
a&b and draw a line across,do the same with sides c&d.
Now draw a mark, 5" either side of each line at the edge of the board,now
if you draw straight lines with a ruler or straight edge from each 5" point
to point this will give you an hexagon with six equal 10" sides
Use Lee's ( firstname.lastname@example.org) method (except use the radius
instead of the diameter) and make your first one.
Then I'd use a tablesaw pattern jig to make as many as needed.
IMHO this is a far simpler solution than a sled.
How many do you need? Will there be a hole in the center that can be
used as an index? Below is my first guess.
I would start by ripping the material into 10 inch wide strips, this
produces sides 1 and 4 of the hexagon.
If there is a center hole, one could make a sled with a pin whose
center is 5 inches from the near edge of the blade. Add a fence that is
5" from the center of the pin and at 30 degrees ( 60 degrees from the
blade.) With side 1 against the fence cut side 2. You could then
either rotate the piece to cut side 3 or do a flip so the side 4 is
against the fence. There might be some small operational advantage in
always using side 1 or 4 against the angled fence to avoid a cumulative
error from inaccuracy in setting the angle of the fence.
Without a central hole things are a bit harder. Cut the 10" wide
strips into pieces to a bit longer than the point-to-point width of the
hexagon ( about 10.77 inches I think.) Set the miter (or sled fence) to
30 degrees and with the length stop on the miter to a bit over the
point-to-point width. Cut side 2. Without changing the length stop flip
the piece over top-to-bottom and cut side 3. Check that sides 2 and 3
are the same length. (Repeat this procedure for all of your hexagons
before changing the stop. And make a few test pieces for tuning the last
part) Here is where things take some care. Use a length stop that
reaches the point formed by sides 2 and 3 after the piece is flipped
end-to-end. Set the length stop very carefully so that the so that the
distance from point formed by sides 2 and 3 is the point-to-point width
of your hexagon ( 10.77") Cut side 5, flip, and cut side 6. Use test
pieces first and test everything. I would start and bit long and slowly
shorten the length because I could keep using the same test piece. I
suppose one could try to get the length stop set before cutting sides 2
and 3, but I think the above procedure is allows on to fix things if
something is off, rather than cutting the pieces undersized.
Hope this makes some sense.
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