A friend of mine set up his Lionel in a guest room. He put a shelf
around the top 1 foot of the room. Painted murals of trees and just
fully did up the room. It was awesome. The whole rooms motif was that.
Later he did his entire attic. He got hit with the bug again. Wound up
on one of the magazines.
Really the guest room is a nice way of displaying and keeping it out of
the way, high and not a bother ..
On 6/25/2012 4:26 PM, Mike M wrote:
On Mon, 25 Jun 2012 16:36:44 -0400, tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com>
My house is pretty small so not much in the way of extra space. But I
remember as a kid a buddy's day had done the same thing in their
basement. No murals but it went thru walls and everything. I'll get
inspired when I figure out how to run the train from the Keg
refrigerator in the shop to the deck, and how to have a car that
delivers a cold one. 8-)
All you need is a angled stack of cans and a trip lever. When the
appropriate car passes, the trip lever activates and a can comes down into
the car. Lionel probably made a similar accessory, but it handled little
pieces of pipe and not 12 oz cans.
Use it as a template for building a bigger one. The motion's the same (I
think) so all you've got to do is Tim Taylor it. Argh ARgh Argh argh!
Ok, maybe not that big... Kegs are too big for any model train to handle.
You've got to get up to the ride-on style for that.
How big's the average Keg? Somewhere on the order of 5 gallons? That's
about 40 lbs of _Liquid_ weight (that poses some other issues). Four
track side-by-side, assuming an evenly distributed load would mean 10
lbs/track, and would probably require 3 or 4 Lionel-sized cars for the
length per track. With 3 or 4 locomotives per train, if the axles on the
cars hold, you might just do it... until you came to a curve.
Now, if you're thinking about cans or bottles, that's easy. One can or
bottle to a car, and make the train as long as your locomotives can pull
it. (Mike M said "Keg refrigerator", so that's why I was thinking Keg.)
Gondolas would probably be best. Their shallow sides would hold the
weight nice and low in the car, unlike hoppers or various flatbeds, where
the weight would be higher and more prone to tip. Playing "train wreck"
was fun at 5, but now there's precious cargo on board!
Your original idea could be made to work. You would just have to
arange so a car could pull up under the tap which could be controlled
by a solenoid. The bigger problem would be protecting the track from
W. Washington weather. It's about 100' from the shop to the deck with
woods and driveways. You would need some kind of cover for the glass
to minimize spillage and you could probably due that magnetically thru
the track to the car. If I get my leg working right again it's
probably better to walk for the excercise.
On 6/23/2012 11:21 PM, email@example.com wrote:
That used to be true, now that Festool has the Tseries drills I am not
so sure. I have absolutely quit using my 12 volt Makita impact since
getting the Festool Drill. The Festool drill will drive 3" deck screws
in 2x4 stock almost as quickly as the impact and with greater fineness
and much less noise. I was a believer in impacts for 7+years but not so
Just how does it do that Leon?
The thing that impressed me about impact drivers is that I don't have to
lean into a long bit like I used to to keep the phillips from camming
out. The impact driver drives it without the problems.
The impact does it with torque, the Festool T series drills do it with
torque, controlled torque. I was assembling 2x4 shelving in my storage
shed and driving 3" deck screws up to their heads. I could start out
slow to go in the correct direction and speed up, slow down, stop, start
slow, start fast, etc. Regardless of what trigger position I chose the
drill turned the bit at that speed and stopped instantly if I released
the trigger. Basically I had total control and did not have to over
squeeze the trigger to restart if I chose to stop mid way into driving a
All I know is that I have a 18 volt and 12 volt impact at my immediate
disposal and have not use either that I recall since January. I used to
use the impacts about 60% of the time. And I don't use a corded drill
for pocket holes any more either. The Festool drill is doing it all.
I was not sure about the hype of the new Festool T series drill until I
had used mine for a few days.
Yabbut, how _few_ will it drive? I'll get 100+ out of my Makita 18v
impact. <g> (PopMech mag got 128 in their review) Now, how many 1/2"
x 6" lag bolts will yours seat? <giggle>
The finesse is an added point, though, especially for small wood
screws in hardwoods.
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln
I was driving about 200, 3" screws with the Festool drill, It has a 3amp
15 volt battery pack.
Yeah that is pretty cool too, the clutch is electronic, it sounds a tone
and stops with out the rattling sound most clutches make. The drill
remains stooped after the clutch setting is reached until you release
the trigger and pull it again.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.