Well finally after a two month wait I got my byrd spiral cutterhead today
- posted
19 years ago
Well finally after a two month wait I got my byrd spiral cutterhead today
I need to check my scrap pile. :o)
Cutter looks good and probably didn't move!
Shiny Bubinga with no tearout is a Good Thing.
That is truly a piece of tooling that looks like it should work fabulously.
I recall, although I don't recall the source, a discussion about freshly machined 'shiny' wood. One side of the discussion called it a phenomenon similar to 'case-hardening' in metal. The mechanical action, so the discussion went, left a glazed barrier layer, micro thin, on the surface of the wood. I have experienced 'shiny' output from my planer and noticed, that unless I scuffed it with 220 grit, the sealer coat simply wouldn't soak in as well. I noticed this on a solid cherry toe-kick where the 'out-of-sight' side behaved quite differently through the finishing stages causing me to experiment.
I have also sanded walnut burl progressively to 4000 grit, which also became pleasantly 'shiny' and the finish soaked in quite well.
Has anyone here experienced that?
Or are the bats in my belfry on the rampage again?
0?0 ?Rob
Burnishing. I've seen it when hand planing and also when turning and I rubbed the bevel a bit too aggresively
I like the way the cutters cut at an angle. Somehow I thought they were just staggered, not also angled. The shop where my son works has a great big ol' spiral cutter planer. He said when they got dull the company sent out two men who spent all day rotating the cutters. (They probably serviced other parts too).
The ones on the grizzly website seem to be the way you describe them: just staggered. The ones from byrdtools though are turned a little. Byrd claims theirs are better, but I'm not sure I could tell the difference.
brian
the byrd follow the curve of the head pretty much. the cutters also have a curve. that would make them cut cleaner. overall the quality I bet is 10 times better and does not cost much more.
myself I don't use the wood right off the planer or jointer. but I have sanded the wood to very fine grits and it finish fine. I glue up the wood all the time right from the jointer without issues.
Heat is the issue. A board beaten into burnished condition by dull blades or sanded unto ridiculous grits under power can turn back oil finishes. One of the benefits of setting with water before final sanding - by hand - is that it helps break this "case-hardening." Most glues are water-based to some degree, so the benefits should extend to an edge produced by a moderately dull jointer.
my jointer leaves a shine but it is very sharp just ask my hands (G) but I have done sanding to 1200 grit with a palm sander and my oil and wax finish works just as it does if I sand to 320.00
I guess it would be a slicing action since the knives are at an angle. So are these cutters indexed or is there some sort of alignment tool?
I like the idea of buying the cutter head separately. You could start out with a normal planer or jointer, then upgrade later.
brian
yes I am pretty sure they are indexed.
yes that's the way. someone was telling me the cost of the grizzly head separately and it was more then the jointer (G)
I spotted a "spiral" cutterhead for PM and Jet that costs a staggering $600!
Dave
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