So I bought some paper backed walnut veneer. I asked the clerk at the store about glueing methods. He said he only knew about using contact cement. I have been reading all the reasons to not use contact cement. My question is, can I use the iron on method with paper backed?
I had good results with paper-backed alder. Just regular Titebond 2 rolled out on it, a roll on the subtrate, allowed to just about dry, set in place and iron. Tom
So my real answer is "test on scrap". Tom
I used Weldwood solvent based contact cement with good results with paper backed mahogany veneer.
You can do everything with paper-backed that you can do with plain venner; the paper-backed is a little more forgiving and easier to use is all.
I wouldn't use contact cement with any veneer except phenolic-backed.
Only tried the iron-on method once just to see what the fuss was about, but didn't see any advantages over other methods already available in my shop. IMO, hide glue with a venner hammer is easier and more dependable, but that might just be a matter of using what youre familiar and most comfortable with.
I had a bad experience using titebond for veneer back when I was just a little woodworker. I veneered a nice pattern of walnut crotches and burls on a desktop, and it came out great. That night, the relative humidity dropped from 80% to 40% or something ridiculus like that, and the desktop was trash. The titebond was expanding and contract _a lot_ with the humidity, and taking my veneer along with it. That's when I started using hide glue for radiused surfaces and Weldwood urea formaldehyde glue or Titebond cold press in the veneer press. I like the weldwood a little more, but the titebond cold press is a lot easier to use (no mixing).
Thanks for your post - reminded me I just used up the last of the crossbanding, so I ordered more + perforated tape (don't like the plain tape I have now as much) + some 2 part urea formaldehyde veneer glue that Constantines sells - I have some swell quilted birdseye maple veneers to try it out on!
-- Timothy Juvenal
I used paper back oak veneer to cover door jambs that were "plastic covered wood grain" I only lightly sanded them and used contact cement to attach. That was 16 years ago. Still in great condition. I built a large computer desk with 3/4 inch partical board, dense type. used some mahogany veneer and contact cement. 9 years and holding up . WW
I used paper back oak veneer to cover door jambs that were "plastic covered wood grain" I only lightly sanded them and used contact cement to attach. That was 16 years ago. Still in great condition. I built a large computer desk with 3/4 inch partical board, dense type. used some mahogany veneer and contact cement. 9 years and holding up . WW
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