In general, liquid polyurethane glues (like Gorilla glue) want a very
tight fit (it's not gap filling at all) and sufficient humidity.
On the plus side, it is water resistant, has a longer open time than PVA
can glue different materials together, and doesn't need the mixing that
If one uses a fair bit of epoxy, the MixPac dispensers are pretty easy
to use. A fresh tip, a whole variety of viscosities and set-up times.
The smaller types are most economical for the lower quantity user.
Larger systems cost a lot to start off with, but the price per ml goes
down. The 50 ml guns are ideal.
On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 11:52:28 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
So, the list lengthens. We have Searz (Crapsman tools), Thompson
(Water Seal), Wagner (paint tools), Feit (compact fluorescent bulbs),
and now Gorilla (glue) as companies whose marketing departments
apparently outstrip their manufacturing prowess by several hundred
Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas
to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label
of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem
important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost.
-- Thomas J. Watson
For basic shop stuff, sheet goods, and panel glue-ups, yellow glue. If
consideration is made for expansion, panels almost never come apart, and
if they do it's easy to clean up the glue line and glue it back
together. I like the LV glue, but TBIII is good as well. Both of them
will work at fairly low temperatures, important up here in the winter.
For joints on "good" pieces that might need to be repaired sometime down
the line, liquid hide glue or epoxy. Both of them are repairable in
ways that yellow glue isn't. Epoxy can also have a longer open time,
and fills gaps structurally, which hardly any other glue does.
I'd like to try plastic resin glue, but in the winter I'd have to use a
heat blanket to keep it warm enough to cure.
I've used Roo Glue on melamine. Worked reasonably well.
Titebond I or II until it gets too cold in the garage, or I need better
water resistance, then Titebond III. Epoxy for gap- or hole-filling.
Haven't tried hide glue yet, but I will, because it's reversible and
Titebond III for most glue ups; Plastic resin glue for complicated glue-ups
needing longer open time; Epoxy (West system 105/207) for bent laminations
and veneer glue ups; Contact cement for attaching plastic laminate to
substrate; Roo glue when smooth surfaces like melamine are involved.
I used West epoxy at the suggestion of an instructor to attach veneer to a
couple panels. A filler was added. He liked the stuff because it had no
bleed through. He sold sushi boards on the side and used epoxy exclusively
for attaching the veneers..
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