Leon wrote: ...
My point...I didn't see anything else show up in a (very) quick google just to try to satisfy my curiosity...
About what Titebond I/II are, indeed, and less than III...
No HD or other big boxes here; have not seen it at the local building supply where they keep the original stuff on the checkout counters...the ads do seem to work...
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Not compared to TBII at about $20/gal.
Lew
Geez Lew. much cheaper in the 55 gallon drum compared to the TBII at about $20. ;~)
Where is here, can yo order on line? Rockler, and HD will ship.
I see that Walmart has it also, in Houston.
I reserve 55 gallon drums for my epoxy base resin.
Lew
Leon wrote: ...
Far SW KS. Could, is it really sufficiently better than TB II/III to make paying shipping worth it since can get them both in whatever quantity container desired (at least up to 5 gal pails) locally?
That's worse than dealing w/ HD!!! :) Do have one o' them; I avoid it as much as possible altho occasionally it becomes about the only place for some things (not generally hardware-related, though). They're surely the pits for what they do overall to product availability/choice in small towns (to throw in the obligatory editorial comment...).
Anyway, would you feel deprived to give up Gorilla white pva in favor of TB and if so, why? Perhaps I'd throw a a container in another mail order next time something comes up if were. The ANSI I/II water-resistance together is some advantage I can see in the architectural work where I typically use TB III now. Wish I did know the chalk temperature as that often seems to be an issue come fall or early spring which is when often either trying to beat real winter or get jump before field work really hits in spring.
I'm off doing the barn roof/repaint as the major project to fill-in work when there's a break as did get the new roof on and the whole thing at least primed. Still most of the doors need redone, all the windows need built or rebuilt for the ones that still have a window in the opening, the haymow floor, ... Probably still be at it when I'm 80 at the rate it gets attention now... :)
to answer that question, I don't know as foar as what you consider to be better. If you saw what I mentioned in an earlier post, most all of the yellow, white, and tan glues work well enough. I prefer to use the Gorilla white on lighter woods and the joint line is less apparent, it dries clear. I prefer the TBIII for oak and darkers woods, it dries dark brown. and I prefer yellow glue when I don't care either way what the joint looks like.
Typically however I do care what the joint looks like.
That's worse than dealing w/ HD!!! :) Do have one o' them; I avoid it
I know! LOL.
Absolutely not except for the reason mentioned above. Cured color is whay I choose one over the other.
Perhaps I'd throw a a container in another mail
Typically because I mostly work with oak and darker woods I use the TB III more often too.
Wish I did know
I bet an e-mail to Gorillaglue.com would answer your questions.
Have fun!
;~)
Leon wrote: ...
...
That answers the question fully ... the performance is essentially the same afay(ou're)c(oncerned/care) other than aesthetics. In that case, I'll probably just stick w/ TB; could see a change only if it had some additional advantages such as tack or much quicker clamp time, etc.
In general, I find the glue line thin enough it isn't obvious enough in a finished piece to matter what the glue color itself was, but I don't use much really light wood in glueups where it would be terribly noticeable.
Probably -- doubt it could be enough lower than TB III given it's a PVA that it would matter, though.
Thanks, was the answer was looking for... :)
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On Thu, 3 Dec 2009 11:52:28 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett" scrawled the following:
So, the list lengthens. We have Searz (Crapsman tools), Thompson (Water Seal), Wagner (paint tools), Feit (compact fluorescent bulbs), and now Gorilla (glue) as companies whose marketing departments apparently outstrip their manufacturing prowess by several hundred percent, eh?
-- Follow the path of the unsafe, independent thinker. Expose your ideas to the dangers of controversy. Speak your mind and fear less the label of 'crackpot' than the stigma of conformity. And on issues that seem important to you, stand up and be counted at any cost. -- Thomas J. Watson
I sometimes use III where II would do because of its longer open time and because it doesn't run as much.
Epoxy for veneer? That's new to me. Please elaborate.
I've become addicted to this stuff:
I used West epoxy at the suggestion of an instructor to attach veneer to a couple panels. A filler was added. He liked the stuff because it had no bleed through. He sold sushi boards on the side and used epoxy exclusively for attaching the veneers..
"DanG" wrote in news:WciSm.40084$ZF3.25294 @newsfe13.iad:
That doesn't look like it costs any more than the regular Titebond II. I might have to get some when I use up the gallon of Titebond II.
Puckdropper
Epoxy is another one of those slippery slopes.
Lew
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