????? Where do you live that finding a 2x4 is an "adventure"?
I'm not talking about doug fir if you're west of the Mississipi
or Lodge Pole Pine or southern yellow pine.
Around here, finding 2x2s - in maple, or mahogany or ash, or even
oak, let alone padouk or teak - IS an adventure. There are places
you can order it - sight unseen - and wait three or four months
for a container to arrive from god knows where to actually have
it in hand. I don't plan that far ahead - though I do pick up stuff
I don't "need" right now - if the opportunity presents itself. 10/4
and 12/4 claro walnut slabs - some of it crotch - for $40 to $50
apiece is something I can't pass up. A Bartlett Pear log - en buole
for $200 now sits under a loose tarp on my driveway - off the ground
on stickers of course.
Now redwood - we got shitloads of the stuff here in NorCal. some
of it is absolutely gorgeous - but soft. Pity - some of it has
which will take your breath away.
Nice to know an arborist who is also a sawyer AND a furniture
maker. Once again - Thank You Blair!
Actually when I had a 1 hp Craftsman I always used a thin kerf until I
discovered the better quality regular kerf blades. I got better results
with a better quality regular kerf blade than I did with think kerf blades
on that saw.
It all depends on the type of woodworking your friend wants to do. Cutting
thinner material will be fine with a blade that can flex a bit (although not
ideal, it still works). So if all he's buying is stuff from HD or Lowes,
he's probably ok with the Thin Kerf. If he wants to cut stuff thicker, I'd
recommend the full kerf. The saw he's buying is the same I've got and
it'll drive a full kerf just fine. Other than saving a very small amount
of wood, there's no reason to go with the thin kerf that I can see.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.