Nahhh. Prime first, seal it up and raise the slivers, then light sand. Less
work and better finish.
Tight budget, and I'm a novice diy'er.
Thanks to everyone for the advice. I really wanted to avoid MDF but my
wife's family were fanatical about me using it so I had to investigate why.
thanks for the firepower. I work for a fastener and cutting tools company
so I appreciate the concerns raised on fastening.
I invested $25 into Taunton's Built-Ins book for some ideas and and standard
sizes to consider.
Still not decided on lumber or plywood but Birch is very paintable and Maple
is very stainable correct? Lumber would be popular right? Do all of these
have to be finely sanded before primer?
Maple is stain-able but can be very splotchy. A conditioner helps give
a more even look.
Birch and other "Finnish" plywood is finish ready. (pun)
Most home store hardwood lumber is ready for paint although a quick rub
down with 180 or 220 wouldn't hurt things, and would be a good idea
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Nobody's mentioned the sagulator
<http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm . If you don't want your
shelves to sag, use it. Read all the instructions.
You can make it out of solid titanium and it will still sag and fall
apart if you didn't get the structural design right.
Maple is not the best choice for stain--it tends to blotch unless you
use a pretreatement on it.
For a finish take a look at ML Campbell Magnamax precatalyzed lacquer.
Comes clear or you can get it in opaque colors. Really good stuff.
As for MDF, the only _real_ problem is has is that the edges need to be
protected or they get bunged up easily. It works fine if you understand
it. Take a look in any Scandinavian furniture store and you'll find
some rather expensive items made out of veneered MDF with solid edging..
Got a Danish bed in 1979. Other than one spot where I managed to mangle
the veneer, it still looks pretty much like it did when I got it. No
swelling, no sagging, none of the other horrible things that MDF is
supposed to do.
"Poplar" is lumber from the Poplar tree, thus not all lumber is
It is easy to machine, including sanding, clear, low cost, stable and
a favorite of cabinet makers for painted projects.
SFWIW, if I'm going to paint something, I stop sanding at about
and start priming.
A few years ago, Norm did a "system" wall design for book cases on
New Yankee Workshop.
You modify it to fit your available space.
Serach for Item 0513 and take a look
His set of plans and a DVD for $25 is a heck of a deal for a DIY
Having built several NYW projects myself, I can tell you the NYW
are complete, very useful, and worth the money.
Reasonably so. The finished paint job can be no better than the surface to
which it is applied (without MASSIVE amounts of work) so the wood should be
free of dings and the like. Use a primer that will sand reasonably well -
many don't, Zinsser 1-2-3 does - and sand IT baby butt smooth.
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