The easiest way to avoid it, is as the other poster mentioned, use
wipe-on. Just thin it 50% with mineral spirits.
If you us a brush, use these steps to avoid bubbles, rope lines, etc.
1. Don't pickup bubbles into the brush. If you have bubbles on top of
the can, push them aside with a stick before dipping the brush.
2. Use "tipping off". This is a technique where the final stroke of the
brush is made with the brush exactly perpendicular (90 degrees) to the
surface and just lightly stroking the very tip of the brush across the
surface to flatten and scrape any bubbles away.
Tue, Feb 15, 2005, 11:27am (EST-3) firstname.lastname@example.org (Al) wonders:
Anyone got any suggestions on how to get rid of air bubbles in the poly?
No matter how many coats, or what kind of brush I use, I can't get rid
of them and they turn into ugly pits in the finish.
Sounds like you're leaving some details out. I brush on
water-base poly, with no problems. What kike do you use? What's your
technique? You shaking it? Or stirring it? Might want to call the
1-800 number on the can and ask.
Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong.
- David Fasold
I was never satisfied with my finishes with brush-on
poly - even with great (expensive) brushes. I am sure
it is "operator error" of some sort.
When I switched to Minwax wipe-on poly, I was really
pleased with the finishes I achieved. I wipe on
(using bounty paper towels no less) several coats (sometimes
as many as 6 or 7) - rub down with #0000 steel wool
Shake the can, pour it on the towel, wipe it on. It is
fullproof IMHO - made for hobbyists.
Even Norm uses the stuff!
I'm sure I just read something that said to use a hair dryer on the bubbles
but can't remember where. Unless you (or I or anyone) have had a lot of
experience it has to be smart to treat a couple of chunks the wood you are
using the same as you are treating the finished product and then you have
something to experiment on when the results are surprising.
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