I just bought a pair of bookmatched sugar maple flitches. Each is about 82 inches long by 16 wide by 2 1/4 thick. Both for $100. One of them has a divot about six inches long by 3 inches wide and about an inch deep. What would you use to fill that void?
Larry
PS: Yah, I know, I suck.
Another chip off (end of) the old block?
82 inches long by 16 wide by 2 1/4 thick. Both for $100. One of them has a divot about six inches long by 3 inches wide and about an inch deep. Wha t would you use to fill that void?
A natural defect? What you gonna use them for, hence some sort of contras ting decor inlay might work, like a fish shaped dutchman, if you're a fishe rman....
.... As opposed to filling with (tinted?) epoxy.
It appears to be a natural defect. I've never used epoxy. How long would a fill that size take to cure?
Fill it with something that will behave as the sugar maple as it moves about. Maybe wood dust in a glue. - They make a fine wood filler like that. Place it on the bottom so the patch doesn't show.
Otherwise - like it said - a bow tie patch out of more sugar maple.
Mart> I just bought a pair of bookmatched sugar maple flitches. Each is about 82 inches long by 16 wide by 2 1/4 thick. Both for $100. One of them has a divot about six inches long by 3 inches wide and about an inch deep. What would you use to fill that void?
Certainly you don't have to use 100% epoxy. Maybe screw a block into the hole first.
Depends, here are fast epoxies, there are slow epoxies. Slow ones take hours to get hard, fast ones take minutes. Thick pours harden faster than thin ones. All take at least a couple of days to cure.
d a fill that size take to cure?
I had inquired, here, regarding my walnut table project, about using a fill er and was convinced epoxy was my best bet. Since then, I've been using W est System's G-Flex 650-8 epoxy for filling voids in other projects, as wel l, the latest being in the voids in the arms of the latest rocker. You can see the defects/voids at the front of the arms.
I used G-Flex 650-8 for filling defects in a cedar table top (and bottom-si de, also), with a red tinting (Transtint dye). Page right for pics of the application process.
West System's webside is not opening for me, now.... must be doing some mai ntenance on the site.
The G-Flex 650-8 will flow (slowly) into crevices. I think the 655-8 is th icker and doesn't readily flow. I've never used the 655-8. The 650-8 has a pot life/work time of 45 minutes. It has taken me this long to fill som e voids, as it flows slowly into small cracks and voids, so this particular product suits my time requirements.
For my applications, I wouldn't use the 5 minute or fast setting epoxy. I don't work that fast.
The 650-8 sets up in 4 hours and cures in 10 hours. This suits me, also. I'm not in a rush for it to cure. I don't think the size of the fill matt ers, as to how fast it sets or cures. Seems it's water proof, or at least is a preference in marine applications. No problems sanding it, also. Cl ean up with acetone.
Others, here, may have more advice about ways of, or products for, tinting. I've only used TransTint dyes for tinting.
I see Jamestown sells the 2-bottle (8 oz) for $19, but I don't know the shi pping. My local West's Marine sells it for $30. I need to get more, to f inish those rocker arms.
Sonny
I would first try steam to see if the dent can be raised. Wet it with water and apply an iron. see if it will rise. Keep a wet cloth between the wood and iron. You may get it in one shot, it may take 2 tries.
Never tried Epoxy?
There are many different types of epoxy. Some remain flexible, some are heat treatable for strength (post cure epoxy).
What you want is a finishing epoxy. Both west and system 3 have them. The shorter the cure, the less strength, and usually a little less hard too.
You can add color to epoxy, using pigments, dyes. Some epoxies yellow, some brown. I would get a finishing epoxy.
You can thin epoxy with alcohol, or heat. The heat will make it cure faster, too much alcohol can make it gummy.
mix your epoxy well. and follow the ratios as accurately as possible. I use a scale.
Epoxy can look like glass , or you can sand it to look like frosted glass. You can repolish it with successive finer upto the finest grit to get that glass like back if you went too far.
"Gramps' shop" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
That is kinda deep to fill.
My first thought would be to find a project that let me cut that part out and discard it, or that required a mortise or something similar at that point, or at least covered it with some other part of the structure.
My second thought would be, as others suggested, a dutchman. Note that this can be simple rectangle, it doesn't need to be a butterfly (double dovetail) since you're not trying to hold a crack closed. Cut it on a slight taper so it makes a tight join, tap it in with regular wood glue, plane flush and it'll be almost invisible.
Third thought would be (as others have suggested) epoxy. For the size this is, I wouldn't use any other kind of filler, it needs to have some strength. I would use sanding dust from the same wood to bulk up the epoxy to a stiff consistancy like peanut butter. Boatbuilder's epoxies, like West System, will give you a choice of hardeners - a "clear" which will give you patch a tad darker and yellower than the wood, and a "regular" which will be considerably darker, more like a knot.
John
I suspect it may take more than two tries to steam up an inch deep "dent" :)
Yup. This is a sand wedge sized divot. I am leaning toward a combo of decorative material and epoxy.
yea I glossed over the depth, and after I posted it looked at it again, and realized. Still it is possible if it's a real dent to blow it up with steam. If its a gouge, well NO.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.