Yeah, those are what I have, some 12", some 24". I use them for pretty much anything they will fit, have found them plenty strong enough. For bigger stuff, I use 1/2" ot 3/4" pipe clamps...I can and have hooked them together to clamp 10' stuff. Or bigger, if need be.
I compared 2 similar looking clamps. One's with plastic parts in the guts, and one with metal parts there. And just as I expected, the one that had metal one. I made a mental note at the point to remember to always look for the metal.
snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
To be clear, I was thinking of the steel bar Jorgensen clamps, which are exerting a fair bit of force by the time they're bending.
Generally in cabinetry, if you need a lot of clamp force then something isn't right. Maybe if you're doing bent laminations, or building a boat or something like that; but most things we do should go together with only moderate pressure. Even for edge-gluing panels, 5 small clamps works better than 3 big ones widely spaced.
I started out with 3/4" Pony bar clamps with 48" black pipe. They were fairly inexpensive and have a lot of clamping force. But, they tend to tip over when trying to glue up panels, and the black pipe leaves black stains at the glue joints (not usually a problem since I plane the panels down after glueup).
Based on Mark's review on the Wood Whisperer, I invested in a set of Jet
24" parallel bar clamps.
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I've really liked the Jet bar clamps. The 24" length is perfect for most projects I work on. They stand up nicely during glueups, and the trigger latch makes it easy to adjust the moveable head.
My wife bought me a Bessey brand parallel clamp many years ago and I could never get the head to work right. I don't know if it's me or something wrong with the clamp, but I never liked it. The trigger on the Jet clamp is much easier to work with.
I also have a small collection of 12" Irwin bar clamps:
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I bought four to start with, then bought another four a year or two later. Unfortunately, the newer clamps have smaller clamping heads than the old clamps, but they still work nice.
The Irwin clamps work great for gluing up laminations or other small projects. I actually use them a lot for clamping things to my saw horses when working on projects.
I don't use the pipe clamps much anymore, but they're still handy when I need the longer 48" length. They're also easier to gang up for really long lengths as I can rotate the heads on the pipes to engage another clamp. I also used the pipe clamps when building out house to help pull things into alignment. The high clamping pressure helped in those situations.
I don't have any of the one handed clamps at the moment, but there are times those would really come in handy.
That's *exactly" what I use them for, mostly, as a third hand.
I building a Sharn* in own new back yard, by myself, and those new Irwins came in real handy when lifting 16' treated 2x10s into place onto the posts to make the laminated beam for the trusses.
I have a set of those aluminum bar clamps, about 1999 vintage, they are great.
The HF F clamps have been great too, I have only had 1 bad one. The early ones were better. Some of the castings of the new one are too loose and not square when pressure is put on, but for the price they are good enough.
My vote is great deal for the price. I have bought far worse for big $$$$, even name brand.
Again my early ones are great. Thick wall, much thicker than the Jet's. The castings are good.
The HF quick have been very disappointing.
The older ones, do not twist, the newer ones do, but again, for the 2.99 for 6" I can't find fault. For 12 and 24, I only use them occaisionally, then I take out my Cabinet Masters or Bessey's. BTW stay away from the Woodcraft Bessey look alike.. pure junk that twists on tightening, and that was not a cheap mistake.
Most of mine have galvanized rather than black pipe but would leave stain too if I'm using yellow glue (because of the acid in the glue) if they were touching the glue line. Which they aren't.
When I first put a pipe clamp on, I assure that the clamp pressure points are centered on the board edges as much as possible and rotate the clamp so the pipe is touching the board which lets me see if the boards are buckling. Once all is well, I rotate the clamp so the pipe is no longer touching the wood. No stains.
Or - if both ends of the pipe are threaded - just join one or more lengths of pipe with pipe couplings.
"dadiOH" wrote in news:lvn447$ib9$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Something to try (and cheap) - get a couple SS pipe clamps and put them on the pipe loose (so that they slide easy). Position them so they contact the wood instead of the black or galvanized pipe.
The pipe clamps I had wouldn't work with galvanized pipe. The jaws wouldn't bite through the surface, so couldn't be tightened. I was also warned that if they did, the galvanization would flake off making a mess.
I inherited my first two pipe clamps from my dad. He had used galvanized for his too. Over time the teeth dug into the galvanized metal, leaving little metal flakes, and the head wouldn't hold any more. I replaced the galvanized with black pipe and never had another problem. So, I opted for black pipe when I bought more pipe clamps.
Mine are threaded, and I keep some PVC caps screwed on the open end to protect the threads. I bought a couple of pipe couplings just for the times when I needed longer clamps. Of course, it's usually easier to just grab another clamp off the rack and interlock them. To date, I've never used the pipe couplings. :)
In any case, I don't use the pipe clamps much these days. In addition to the tipping and staining problems, the longer 48" length doesn't fit on my workbench. So the length is usually a hindrence more than a help for most situations. Of course, the few times I need the increased length, they're nice to have.
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