Now how to draw. Draw flat and everything. Do not make any of this as
component yet. Make a complete copy and move to the side. Erase every
thing in the first drawing that is not the rails. Go to the second
complete drawing and erase everything that are not stiles. The ark on the
stiles should remain. Now make everything into components and put the
On Monday, July 27, 2015 at 4:15:11 PM UTC-5, Greg Guarino wrote:
With a 36' (432") radius, and the chord is 2.5", the angle would be .331 degrees and the distance from the chord to the top of the arc is .00181".
Might as well cut the tops of the stiles straight across.
While this will work but will leave a gap, small one, it will not be a
strong joint, touching in only two points. Additionally at precisely
what angle will you cut?
It is probably going to be just as easy to cut the matching ark on the
stiles using a flush trim router bit and using the ark on the rail as
Something to also consider with a 36' radius I doubt he is going to get
a perfect ark unless he uses his router on the end of a 36' long string,
and then placement of the rail will be critical. ;~)
Better to print the pattern, glue to the rail, cut close to the drawing
ark, and then sand smooth to the line. Remove the paper pattern.
The ark will not be perfect but if you use the ark on the rail to guide
the flush cut bit it will be a perfect match.
I'd probably dry fit it and see how tight the joint looked,
and then take a pass or two with a block plane to make the
stile fit if it needed it.
Now, if you wanted to get fancy, instead of tenoning the
stiles into the rails, you could rabbet the rails and fit
the stiles with a bridle joint, making it a decorative
element. Perhaps make the stiles thicker than the rails
so they stood a little proud or maybe routing a bead or
something along the edges. That would hide the lower joint,
and making the top flush would be easy.
(I saw pictures of a piece done that way somewhere, thought
it was a neat technique)
Ok, one more example of using the top arc on the rail as a template to
guide the top bearing flush cut router bit.
I had a variable arc curve MDF template that I clamped to the cutting
boards and cut a 1/4" deep grove in the cutting board. Then band sawed
down the middle of the grove to separate the halves. Then removed the
remainder using the existing original grove to guide the bit to remove
the remaining waste. The strips you see go all the way through the
boards and for each group of strips I cut the cutting board again.
So...... this method does work if you want a perfect fit. ;~)
OK! Nevermind. My suggestion will NOT work well.
The arc on the stile will end up with a radius that is 1/2" shorter than
the 36' radius on the rail/pattern. Assuming you use a 1/2" flush cut bit.
There will be a gap unless you put a 1/2" strip between the rail and the
stile, again assuming you use a 1/2" bit.
Hope this was not too late.
Not difficult at all to make a jig to route the exact arch in the top of
You still want the joinery to fit perfectly, both for aesthetics,
strength, and peace of mind.
Think JIG ... and use SU to your advantage:
Print, to scale, a template of the top curve of the part, which you can
then use to both paste on the top of the stiles for the rough cut, and
for making a simple router jig(s) to make the precision fit.
Since you are working on end grain of the stile, build a backup piece
into the jig to mitigate tear out.
Just one, of many ways, to skin that cat. But doing it in such a manner
that is is both pleasing and structurally sound makes you feel better in
the long run.
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