Edge banding plywood

[GarageWoodworks]

What thickness do you 'typically' use when edge banding plywood (3/4") with solid stock?

[DJ Delorie]

The last time I did this, the exposed part of the banding was only

1/4" thick. However, the plywood had a 1/2" x 1/2" groove routed in it, so the actual size of the banding was 3/4" x 3/4". Think of a big tongue-and-groove - very strong and easy to apply (less clamping was needed since the banding was less flexible).

If you can get stock a little thicker than the ply, and sand or scrape it (or even trim router it) flush, you may end up with a better match.

[Jay Pique]

1/4x13/16"

JP

[Toller]

Any thickness you want, depending on how you want it to look. A blanket chest I made a few years ago called for 3".

[bridgerfafc]

'typically' use when edge banding plywood (3/4")

for 3/4" ply, I generally like to go either as thin as I can (make it disappear) or else a little bit over 1". I think 1-1/4" or so looks sharp as an edge for horizontal surfaces like tabletops and shelves.

[whit3rd]

Well, wood tape (veneer, actually) works well with either contact cement or with white glue (PVA). For white glue, paint the edge and veneer, let dry, then iron-on to make the attachment. I've heard of edge-banding with a commercial product that has hotmelt glue already on the tape, but haven't tried that.

I'm also toying with cutting a V profile in the plywood, then glueing a triangle strip (45-45-90 degree triangle ripped from an edge of a board). It's comfortably wider than the plywood, easy to trim neatly with router or even hand-planes. Cutting the plywood and clamping the strip in place are slightly challenging, though.

[Leon]

To hide the grain, I go 1/4". That is thick enough to countersink the nail and putty.