Need to edge band some plywood. Would like to use solid wood and am looking at the router bits to do it.
MLCS has 2 styles. One is a v-groove that I have seen several outfits offer and the other adds a tongue & groove to the v-groove.
Need to edge band some plywood. Would like to use solid wood and am looking at the router bits to do it.
MLCS has 2 styles. One is a v-groove that I have seen several outfits offer and the other adds a tongue & groove to the v-groove.
Have a look at the latest issue of Wood magazine - they just did an article on that.
-- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?
I've never seen any advantage to them as opposed to just glueing on a strip of hardwood.
Depends on how wide/thick you want the banding. If you just want to cover the ply edge, rip hardwood into strips maybe 1/16 thick, paint one side with white PVC glue, let it dry and iron them on with a hot iron.
Thickness up to about 1/8 is OK but the thicker they are the harder it is to trim flush. For thin ones, a coarse file at a slight angle to the ply works well.
-- dadiOH ____________________________
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I know that these work:
I get good results just using a sawn edge on both the plywood and the banding stock. No router bit required. I currently use a Forrest WW2 on my tablesaw but I have also used a top of the line Oldham with success. Sometimes on long edges I will use #0 biscuits to aid in alignment when clamping. BTW, if your using oak ply, this is one instance where you may be able to actually get some usable stock (for the banding) from old pallets.
I tried your approach (just using the sawn edge for the ply and banding). Seems to work just dandy!! Tried to pry the edge off with my hands and couldn't. I am starting to wonder why one would have to use the bits now.
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