Dovetails in tapered joints

One way would be to make the walls thick enough so you can join them with conventional dovetails, then saw them with a tilted blade. That avoids the geometry problem, but might not end up with the most attractive possible dovetails.

I know this is a copout so you don't need to say that.

Rodney Myrvaagnes NYC J36 Gjo/a

The sound of a Great Blue Heron's wingbeats going by your head

the spell checker catches most of my mistakes; did it let one slip through? Actually, I do dream about woodworking, some nights. :)

I was thinking of cutting the ends of the boards at the desired angle so that they would be sloped, then build a beveled spacer to put on the right angle fixture of the Incra Twin Linear. That way the wood would be both tilted and skewed as it is run through the dovetail bit. And even with all that newbie thinking, I've not been able to visualize if the pieces can be slid together!

dave

FOW wrote:

Rod,

Thanks for the link. I reviewed each style and found that what I had in mind is the compound angle, or hopper joint. After viewing the picture of the sample, I think that I should make the letter tray with straight sides. It just doesn't look suitable, or maybe it doesn't look right because the sample is so deep. I'll try to bring up some pictures on the web or look in a office supply catalog so I can decide if I want to go with sloping sides.

dave

Rodney Myrvaagnes wrote: