Quality TRUMPS cheap every time.
My Forrest WWII 40 tooth blades do an amazing job with plywood. Pricey but I only have to remove the blade to have it resharpened or to mount a stacked dado. I use no dedicated plywood, crosscut, or rip blades.
Well, they most often come in pairs, so they do "belong" on both sides.
-MIKE- wrote in news:ouvr71$cu9$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
Your experience and mine differ; I've *never* seen them in pairs, only singles.
Better not google it or you'll break that record. :-p
There is no reason that steel can't be as sharp as carbide, even sharper. More likely the problem is the $10. How accurate is the set in all those teeth? How sharp? High-end blades don't have nearly that many teeth. The highest I've seen is around 80 for a 10" blade and that's for solid-surface counter material.
Perhaps but the Freud Glue-Line Rip is one sweet blade. Another useful blade is the #1 grind.
I love the Glue-Line! Is the #1 grind the flat top one?
It's certainly worth the bother of changing blades.
Yes.
If you plan to use just one, use this one.
You win! LMAO.
If you use two stabilizers one on each side of the blade, the ones I have came in a pair. Then the answer is yes.
I'll have to make a correction to my statement. I do change a WWII for another WWII that I had Forrest put a flat grind on, I use it strictly for narrower than 1/4" wide groves.
Whaaaaaaaaat? :-). Do all your cutting on the blade side? Maybe you meant nut side.
But, regardless of where the gap is at you are likely to need/use the pieces from both sides of the cut. So the usable scrap will possibly have some splintering.
AND, yes using the double set stabilizer will widen the slot.
I think the blade is intended for THIN plywood. I had one these style blades in 1979, it only did well in thin material.
I'll go with too many teeth for thick material. The blades teeth are simply loading up before clearing the cut. There is no more room in the gullet before the teeth exit the cut.
When resawing on a BS it is recommended that there be fewer teeth so that the gullets do not fill before exiting the cut. One of my blades has a tooth every 1.3". It resaws smoother and faster than my blades with more closely cut teeth.
Yeah, I guess that doesn't make sense. Also you could cut long and flip over to make the final cut. But yeah, just make a new ZCI and be done with it.
Of all the years of being in and out of cabinet shops (and using blades mys elf) I have never seen a higher tooth count than 80 (on 12" saws) and usual ly no more than 60 tooth count on 12" or 10". Production cabinet shops des ign cabinets to hide their cuts, so speed and accuracy of dimension are jus t as important as splinter problems.
They use brands of blades that I only see when I am in their shops, and the blades are selected by the size of carbide tips (determines the times they can be sharpened) and by the type of carbide (at least C3), the tooth desi gn and quality of original manufacture.
The only time I see the super high tooth count blades is on mitering machin es of some sort that cut specialty moldings.
Robert
Systematic ring a bell? That was my first good quality blade, a local and old picture framing shop used them on their miter saws.
DerbyDad03 wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Sometimes I wonder if writers live the thing they write about. Just reading historical documents and adding your thoughts may be a good way to get an article done, but it doesn't exactly add to the sum of human knowledge.
My carbide blades do just fine with most plywood, going up to 80T max. I usually use a 40T or 60T if the cut edge isn't critical, depending on what's on the saw. I have not really seen that great of result from super high tooth count "Naruto's Hair" style teeth the few times I've tried.
Puckdropper
And a new sled? I'd rather not.
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