Domin-OH (wow)

[Leon]

If you enter the correct data. :-).

[Swingman]

I rest my case ... ;)

[Lew Hodgett]

-------------------------------------------- Are you using 1" = 25.6 mm?

Lew

[Lew Hodgett]

----------------------------------------

------------------------------------------ Lew Hodgett wrote:

"Le> If you enter the correct data.

-----------------------------------------------

21-3/32" = 21.09375"

1" = 25.6 mm

21.09375" x 25.6 mm/" = 540 mm.

Nuf said.

Lew

[Puckdropper]

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:512c0d68$0$63580 $c3e8da3$ [e-mail]:

I hope not. 1" = 25.4 mm.

Puckdropper

[-MIKE-]

On what planet does 1" equal 25.6 mm?

[Leon]

Kalefornia

[Swingman]

Reading the myriad answers to my question, apparently there is not a planet where GIGO does not apply. LOL

It why: "I have memorized the key strokes for conversion on every calculator/device I have, and have tape measure with inches and mm on opposite sides."

... and then double check. :)

[Leon]

But uhhhh 1" = 25.4 mm

As previously mentioned, you have to use the correct data to get the correct answer.

So for the 3rd time,

21-3/32" = 21.09375" = 535.7813 mm

21.09375 * 24.4 mm = 535.7813 mm

[Scott Lurndal]

Simple rule of thumb 5cm is approx 2in. 4in per 10 cm (100mm).

21/2 = 10.5 * 5 = 52.5 cm = 525 mm. It's not exact, but will give one an idea of the general vicinity.

[Bill]

The measurement 21 3/32" implies accuracy to within 1/32". I don't think this should be compromised in the translation.

[Swingman]

Say what! LOL

You sound like me trying to get CutList to print a Layout of "Rough Lumber" last week.

[Swingman]

Absolutely ... 1/32" is the fractional resolution to which I set my calculators and drawing programs for woodworking projects.

[Scott Lurndal]

It's a simple means to check that the "227mm" is in the approximate ballpark (which it wasn't) not to get an accurate result.

I prefer story sticks.

scott

[Mike M]

I actually bought a couple of those 12' tapes you recommended and they come in handy. Only problem I have is when I'm in some akword position and realize I have the tape in the wrong hand to get an accurate measurement because the wrong scale is pointed toward my work surface. Tape is easier then having to remember 2.54 cm to the inch.

Mike M

[Swingman]

So do I ... but you must have an existing part, dimension, distance, span on which to use a story stick.

Once that first part is cut accurately to a 1/32, then it's story stick time. :)

[Swingman]

And for that very reason I don't necessarily like using a combo inch/mm tape ... but they are handy when setting up the Festool plunge saw/parallel guides to cut sheet goods for that initial setup to get you close; and also for a quick reference when having to make conversions.

[Scott Lurndal]

But when I hand-cut my dovetails, for example, I eyeball the spacing and mark the pins from the tails, using the tails as the story board.

When I build furniture, I see no reason to specify that a leg is

1 and 17/32 square, I simply use 1 1/2. The mortices are either hand chopped with an appropriately sized morticing chisel (or for bulk work with the hollow-chisel morticer(GI) or the stationary horizontal mortiser(Laguna)). The tenons are fitted to to the mortice (loose or otherwise). The aprons may be 3/4 thick, but +/- 1/16 either way isn't a problem so long as they are all the _same_ thickness.

For doors, make sure all the stiles are the same length/w/t (use a stop block when cutting). Make sure all the rails are the same length (stop block), width (fence) and thickness (jointer/planer or handplane). Whether they are 25/32 or 24/32 thick doesn't really matter so long as they are all the _same_.

It is not often that I need to _measure_ to a point between the 1/8" graduations on a rule. I _like_ my incra rules (but more because of the holes than because it has 64ths).

scott

[Swingman]

You will respect that 1/32nd much more when doing angled joinery, precise reveals, and parallel components for trouble free drawer and inset door installation. ;)

Sometimes ... Let's be as precise in our responses as in our measurements:

For the uninitiated, it is only fair to point out the absolute necessity of using the _same_ "reference face" when determining the location of mortises and tenons from either edge, otherwise any "reveal", or squareness, you planned into your design may likely depart from that design if you're mortises and tenons are not perfectly centered in the stock, ether by design or by not being precise in your measurements, particularly when doing angled components ... IOW, this is a place where being 1/32" of in on or both can cause you grief if you ignore that degree of precision in woodworking.

Just so happens I'm working on a chair reproduction as we speak where the side aprons are 13/16" thick ... the error from using the wrong face when installing the aprons is exactly 1/32" ... enough to cause a gap and reveal error on either the front or back leg.

Again, that 1/32" lack of precision can bite you in the butt. ;)

Yes, it's called "batch cutting", and if you'll check my posts for past twelve years here, you'll see I'm a big proponent.

A leg that is 1/32" shorter than the rest will rock.

A front apron and back apron that are 1/32" off in length can cause a table/chair leg reveal, or component squareness to be off by 1/16" at

24" ... totally unacceptable if the desired reveal is 1/8" ... or if the drawer sides must be parallel.

As above, throw in angular error ... angles being much more difficult to dial in precisely than length, width or thickness ... making 1/32nd precision in said length, width or thickness, even more of a minimum requirement.

Just a few of the reasons why I endeavor to work to 1/32" precision in woodworking ... YMMV

[Leon]

SHIT!

21.09375 * """ 25.4 """ = 535.7813 I'm going to blame the iPad keyboard ;~)

At least when I am proven wrong I'll readily admit it.

Don't you just hate it when Todd so eloquently explains something and all you can say to yourself is Doh!

FWIW I use dimensional lumber for everything except panels.