This'll get you a free 3-story dollhouse plan in PDF format. You'd best
get busy though if you want it done in time for Xmas. BTW, its way more
than one for a 2 yr old but then they take awhile to build anyway so...
For one so young, I'd lean more towards a painted cardboard box w/ an
opening door & cut out windows. That way if its trashed its no big deal.
Arbroath Smokie wrote:
First off all, it isn't the older girls who like Barbie but the younger
ones. I have no idea why. But the Barbies need doll houses an inch taller
per floor than the dolls themselves - IIRC the Barbie doll is 12" tall so
each floor has to be 13" tall for the Barbie to walk around. See
http://www.hobbyworldinc.com/dollplan1.html and "139-467-4 Country House
"Play scale" 1/6" for Barbie dolls. For a two year old girl I would
eliminate the little drawer underneath and eliminate the peaked roof.
Probably would get rid of the front porch, too. I'd put swivel wheels on
boards added to the bottom the stuck out two inches in the front and back
(give the dollhouse a wider base which would be less tippy). If you added a
two inch ridge to the flat top she could store some interesting items up
if you added a strip of plywood down each side of the back you could add two
doors to close the house when not in use and the child could store other
treasures in the house when she got older.
Also see plans like this DOLL HOUSE PLANS FROM BETTER HOMES AND GARDENS
But if it's going to be Barbies, then check the ceiling height!
I built that one. If you would like to see the finished product
it can be seen at
I cut all the parts myself. The tools used for building it were
a table saw, a bench sander and a thickness planner. I spent
about $30 for the wood.
Off topic for this thread, but how did you do the "lye treatment" that
brought out the maple pattern for the rubber stamp chest-of-drawers?
I found some beautiful rippled maple that I'd like to use as a backboard
for some small lights in my game room, and want to accent the ripple
Lye is sodium hydroxide (NAOH). A source of pure NAOH is Red
Devil drain cleaner. This is carefully added to water and applied to the
wood. The amount of darkening is dependent on the concentration.
A teaspoon to a pint is a starting point. Do not get any lye on your
skin. Make the wood darker than you want because it will lighten
up when dry. Wash with water and neutralize with vinegar and finish
as desired. I also use this treatment on cherry to give it a head start
on the natural aging process. Others use dyes to accent patterns
in curly maple. This works because curly maple the grain goes
from flat grain to end grain and back. The end grain absorbs more
dye. Stains usually end up looking blotchy. I prefer the lye method.
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