DIY bandsaw fence

I bought a Delta 12" bandsaw last year. I like the unit, and once I got the right blade for the job, I was off and running. I've been doing a lot of resawing and other work where I need a fence. Delta wants almost $100 for their fence, and other mfgrs run about the same. I've been just using a piece of 2" angle iron and a pair of C clamps, but I'd like something a little better - easier to use and adjust, and more accurately square. Has anyony built their own add-on fence? I did a google search and only found commercial ones in the first 50 or so hits before I gave up.

Reply to
Dan Major
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Dan wrote: I bought a Delta 12" bandsaw last year. I like the unit, and once I got the right blade for the job, I was off and running. I've been doing a lot of resawing and other work where I need a fence. Delta wants almost $100 for their fence, and other mfgrs run about the same. I've been just using a piece of 2" angle iron and a pair of C clamps, but I'd like something a little better - easier to use and adjust, and more accurately square. Has anyony built their own add-on fence? I did a google search and only found commercial ones in the first 50 or so hits before I gave up.

Just build your own. I've put an extension table on my little 14 inch Delta, through which a couple of slots were routed. A simple fence with accessories(like a resaw fence) isn't hard to make, and with a couple of wing nuts and toilet bolts, quite adjustable for drift. Tom

Reply to
tom

Ken Vaughn is your guy for do-it-yourself add-ons...

He built a great bandsaw fence...

http://home.earthl> I bought a Delta 12" bandsaw last year. I like the unit, and once I got

Reply to
Pat Barber

You'll get more than fifty hits in the first couple of months from the rails the commercial rigs ride on. Ad-hoc fences and those sliding vice-grip clamps are great. Not least of all because you take them off when you don't need them.

Use a set of brass bars or the Lee Valley aluminum for your setup. Tap in the desired direction with a mallet for micro adjustment.

Reply to
George

I use a plywood fence, 2 pieces the length of the table, glued with block to make a 90 degree angle, one piece rides on the table, the other is upright to support the wood..

As I learned from charlie's site:

Find a foot long piece of hard board with at least one square edge..

Mark a line parallel to the square edge, cut along the line, 1/2 way through the hardboard..

Stop the saw without moving the hardboard..

Make a pencil line on your table with the square edge of the hardboard..

This is the angle or off set you want to clamp your fence at to cut a straight line while holding stock against the fence..

Or, you can spend a few hundred bucks on a fancy resawing fence setup.. YMMV

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

Pat Barber wrote in news:nLPBe.1145638$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

Yup.

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just the sort of thing I'm lookin for. One qyrstion - why have the track go on *both* sides of the blade? Is it necessary, or just convenient? My shop is very small/cramped and I keep jetting poked in the back every time I turn around.

Reply to
Dan Major

About two weeks ago, McFreelys was selling Kreig BS fences, supposedly discontinued models, for around $50. I ordered one and then sent me what appears to be the same blue and black anodized one that normally retails for $100+. There were some almost invisible scuffs on one part, but I suspect this was a lot of blems. For $50, it wasn't worth it to make anything.

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CaptMike

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charlie b

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