I own a 10 inch Delta Contractor's saw. For a while
I've been suspecting that either my fence or blade alignment
is a tad off. I checked my fence alignment and it appeared
to be okay.
To do a rough check of my blade I attached a small strip of ash
to my miter gauge. I cut the wood half way by running it through
the very front of the blade. I then set the wood at the back of the
blade and ran it through backwards for the other half.
When I looked at the cuts there was a 1/32 inch difference from
where the front of the blade cut the wood and where the back of
the blade cut the wood. So I reasoned that made blade alignment
to my table is slanted about 1/32 of an inch.
Finally, to the point. Is this amount acceptable and what can I do
to correct it?
I'm not sure what you have said demonstrates anything more than a misaligned
miter gage. Tough to get my mind working on your description.
Order of alignment, published in the owner's manual is blade parallel to
groove, fence to blade/groove.
To check blade to groove, you can get a piece of scrap to fit in the groove,
screwed to another at right angles. At the end of the one running toward
the blade, you can screw in a flathead screw which you may use as a touch
gage, or, with feelers, measure error. At any rate, you want the gage to
touch at the front and rear of the blade, using the same tooth to reference,
to assure parallel.
Don't neglect the unspeakable - your grooves may not be parallel. Check
Now align your fence either to the groove or the blade. I like a touch of
daylight extra on the far side of the blade with my fence, though you'll
find a lot of people who don't, and some who can't seem to figure out that
there's no induced rip error in doing so. A bit of an anti-kickback from
the days before pawls.
Hey thanks!!!!!!!!!! That touch gauge w/ a screw jogged my memory!
I started rummaging through all my WW magazines (I need to get those
things organized) and AHAh!!!! I found it! Wood Magazine Issue 152
from Nov 03. Article entitled "Tune up your table saw to perfection".
Went through all the steps and my blade alignment was about 1/32"
off. They even had a picture of a Delta contractor's saw showing
where the adjustment needed to be made. My fence was good as well
as my miter gauge. Now my wood feeds easier and with no burn marks.
Joey in Chesapeake
Doesn't matter if the gage is aligned or not. It still travels the same path
in relation to the blade. His method was just fine.
There's nothing to figure out. Misalignment is misalignment. Any
misalignment will cause the back side of the blade to bear more heavily on
the wood. Take your pick which side this is on though if it is going to be
misaligned, better to do as in your method so the wood doesn't get pinched
between blade and fence.
First Never run your wood backwards on the blade, if it gets
loose you would be amazed the size hole in the wall a small
piece of wood can make. Not to mention if your hands get
dragged in behind the board as it shoots. Once witnessed a
piece of 1/2" square stock break a 1 1/2"x12" birdseye maple
sawhorse 30' away. The guy got a quick lesson in overhead
As for fence alignment... there should be adjustment at the
arbor bearing pillow blocks to square the blade with the
table. Most rip fences can be adjusted also. I prefer to add
a board to the front & back of the fence. for the board on
the back of the fence screw on a piece that can be clamped to
the table top at the rear of the saw. Set the fence for the
cut measuring from fence to both front and rear of the saw
blade. Tap your rear fence block in or out as needed then
tighted it down. Make a test cut. Take a pencil and use the
side of the lead to color the edge of the board you just cut.
If all the lines appear top to bottom toward the same
direction, tap your fence in or out a bit to correct. Lines
will indicate which part of the blade was last in contact
front or rear. Make test cuts till the pattern is a series of
xxxxxx (you'll see where both the front of the blade and back
of the blade both left scratches) down the edge of the board.
Now if you are talking vertical alignment... look under the
table. There is a stop bolt usually with a lock nut for 90
degrees give it a twist till you are vertical.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.