I have an OLD Delta 14" bandsaw that has been in my family since the
40s. It's been a great saw. However a couple weeks ago, I dropped the
upper wheel, and took a 2" chunk out of the rim of the wheel. I found a
used upper wheel, but the used wheel is a newer aluminum wheel, and the
spokes are thicker than the original, which is steel (I think), much
heavier, but thinner spokes. Problem is, that there is an indentation in
the cover for the tensioning knob, and spokes of the aluminum wheel hit
the cover. I've drilled out some washers to space out the wheel a
little bit so that it clears, and I assume I'll have to do the same on
the bottom wheel to get them in plane, but I "think" I'll be able to get
it to at least run.
However, the used aluminum wheel I found seems a bit abused. It
looks like the previous owner had problems getting the bearings in, and
banged up the center hub a bit near the bearings. I'm curious how the
bearings on this saw are installed and removed. Is each bearing put in
put in from the outside, and is there something that keeps them from
going in too far?? I notice that there is a spacer inside the hub that
seems to keep them separated, but if there isn't a positive stop for the
bearing, I'm not sure what keeps the wheel from coming off, except for
the very tight fit. (Hope that makes sense.)
Other question is how are these bearings removed? Can you just bang
them out from the other side? Should you use some kind of puller that
can be inserted into the hole? By either method, can they be pulled or
banged out via the inner movable portion, or is there some way to get to
the outside. I want to take the bearings out, because the bearings on
the used wheel I found feel rough, and I think I should replace them if
I can do it without further damaging the hub. I don't have a manual for
this saw, so I'm not sure what the proper procedure is for replacement
of the bearings. As I said, I'm pretty sure that the previous owner of
the wheel had similar problems and partially damaged the wheel, and I
didn't want to do more damage.
However, I am starting to think that my original wheel might still
be usable. The chunk broken out of it is only at the edge of the wheel,
where the rim that holds the tire in place is, and doesn't affect the
bed that the tire sits on. I'm thinking that perhaps I can get the
broken piece welded back on, just to keep the wheel pretty much in
balance, and hopefully welding it won't warp it. I'm curious what
people think about what my best option would be, ie using the old
original wheel, or the newer aluminum wheel with extra spacers? Or is
there any hope of finding a replacement steel wheel for this saw?
I feel really bad about damaging this saw, as it belonged to my
father, who used it for many years, as have I. I'd really like to make
it good as new again.
Thanks for any suggestions.
My guess is that your old wheel is cast iron.
If so, you may have some luck getting the broken pieced brazed back in
Welding won't do the job.
As long as you have the wheel off the saw, definitely replace the bearings.
They are probably nothing more than bronze sleeve bearings.
All you need is access to an arbor press.
After that, it's a piece of cake.
PS: Be kind to your elders. That's what this saw is, isn't it? <Grin>
It was somewhere outside Barstow when Lew Hodgett
Why not weld it ?
Now I'd suggest Belzona epoxy resins (as recently recommended in
sci.engr.joining.welding) but even JB Weld ought to do it. These would
be simpler than welding. But welding CI isn't exactly rocket science
and plenty of people do it, myself included.
You might try a product called J-B weld. If the piece that broke out is
not in an area where direct stress is applied, it might work very well.
Its a 2 part epoxy like product designed for repairing castings.
You'll find it in most hardware stores. I bought some in Lowes and used
it to successfully repair the housing on a hand grinder - amazing
IIRC the bearings go in from each end and seat against machined shoulders.
Insert a punch (rod) thru one bearing and drive out the other. Go easy and
work around the circumference. A brass 3/8 rod would be ideal. Jim.
You have a model number? If so, get some visual aids at
Delta/Milwaukee to modern day isn't a lot of change.
Whatever you do - removing material, braze/weld, be sure and re-balance the
wheel before you spin it for any length of time.
Might also want to consult with those on http://owwm.com /
Like Lew, no answers, but some prospects.
Thanks for the links. That's a pretty impressive list of model numbers.
However, they don't have my exact model number, which I "THINK" is just
LBS, because the different parts of it have numbers on them like LBS-5,
LBS-92, LBS-26, etc, etc. However, I found one that is pretty much the
same, with a different model number, ie
I have several other Delta/Rockwell tools, a drill press, table saw,
lathe, jointer, however all of these are from back in the 40s, and none
of these have any of the listed model numbers, but I've been able to
find a tool similar to most of them.
Anyway, thanks for the links.
LBS-XX was the system Delta used to use prior to the silly
Internationalization of their parts numbers. You'll find
these numbers on band saw parts from the 30's to the
mid-70's. After that Delta (actually Rockwell) went out and
lost all their class.
If your saw is from the 40's you can get by just telling
everyone that it's a Model No. 28-207. This link will take
you to the "proper" parts drawing/parts listing for your
Personally I like to have both on hand. The older for
identifying the part against the number on the casting in
hand and the newer for actual ordering though Delta has
conversion charts on hand when you call.
Since my last post, I found the old catalog that my father saved. It's a
1940 catalog, although I think he bought it in 1939. The catalog shows
the saw as being a model 890, or actually closest to 892, which has the
base, although mine doesn't have a belt cover, but that may have been
lost. The saw sold for $48.85 in 1940.
My $189 (1939 price) Unisaw would/should be $2341 today.
I've always thought the price of the Unisaw was being kept
artificially low. I mean, for as long as I can remember
(back to the late 80's/early 90's) the saw has hovered right
around where it's selling for today give or take a hunnert
here and there.
It has definitely not risen the same as everything else.
Yeah, we've talked about this before. Either Delta/B&D(is it now?) has
used the Unisaw as a loss-leader; has lessened the material quality to
keep prices lower or some combination (which is my take on it). They
certainly aren't using cast iron bases any longer or even the sheet
metal motor covers of just 2, 3 years ago.
Interesting that the Powermatic 66 appears to be right at about that
1939/2005 price comparison.
Or volume, freight, marketing costs, other overheads etc., have allowed
an iconic product to be sold, profitably, at lower costs overall,
relative to the rest of the economy. Having good experience with my
Unisaw, how much of a factor was that when it came time to choose a
drill press? A jointer? A lathe?
There's a whole bunch of fifty-somethings that know what a Unisaw is, at
least enough to lust after one. Maybe not rational. but then, many of
us fifty-sometings aren't totally rational on equipment purchases.
Marketers are aware of these things.
Hence Delta labeled products in areas/segments where Porter Cable
has/had perfectly servicable offerings.
Run your factors against a bunch of other products. How do pickup
trucks, computers, televisions, housing, etc. stack up?
cleaning some rust off of Econ 105...
Computers are interesting: consider the Apple Macintosh 512k, introduced
in September of 1984, it sold for $3,195. Today that would mean $6005
The new Mac Mini has a 1.25 GHz processor and goes for about $800 with a
17" monitor, keyboard and mouse.
They are the same saw. In 1939 Delta was sold to
Detroit-Timken which was eventually morphed into ownership
by Rockwell in the early 40's. One of the things that
Rockwell did was re-number everything from the Delta three
digit to their hyphenated five digit numbers. The machines
stayed the same, the numbers changed.
Thanks. This is getting interesting. I saw your Delta documents at the
OWWM web page, includuing the serial number page. However, I can't seem
to find serial number tags on any of my machines, except for the drill
press which is a pre-1941 version, 3-6188. The other machines seem to
have the casting numbers on various parts, but I can't find any overall
serial numbers on them. I got the 890 number off the catalog, but never
did find it on the saw anywhere. Perhaps I'm just not looking in the
right place. I don't think the tags were worn off, because they still
have the little patent stickers and things like that.
Anyway, my wife thanks you, because you got me so enthused in all
this that I went downstairs and took pictures of all the tools, but then
decided that there was too much junk and sawdust around them, so I've
decided to clean up the workshop, for the first time in 8 years.
Thanks for all the suggestions above.
I'll try taking it to a local welder, and see if he feels more
comfortable welding or brazing, and give that a try. I guess I'll also
attempt to gently punch out the bearings on the used one I picked up,
and if they come out easily, I'll replace them, and have a spare.
Re balancing, I'll probably ask the welder/brazer to put on a little
extra metal there (I couldn't find everything that chipped out), then I
can file the excess off until balanced. This way, I'll know where the
extra weight needs to come off.... I think.
I read an article on how to balance these wheels, and it didn't
really make sense to me. The article basically said to spin it several
times, and keep marking the spot where it comes to rest at the bottom. I
can't beleive that this would be very accurate. Seems better to somehow
make a center point for it to balance on, perhaps on a lathe out of
light wood, cutting a dowel to go through the bearing hole and a sharp
point, and just lay it on a flat surface and see which side it tips
to???? Seems like that would work, but maybe I'm missing something.
Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions. I've used that metal weld
epoxy stuff in the past too, and that seems like a last resort if
nothing else works.
Gravity wins all the time on good bearings. May not be precise in one spin,
but the number of tries will give you a pretty good average. Then you may
use the method they use in the factory of taking a large drill, and
spiraling away some metal. Mine's got a couple in plain view.
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