I have a delta band saw that's relatively new. Since I've been working
on building kitchen cabinets for the last several months, the band saw
is rarely used.
Yesterday, I needed to resaw a cherry board (3/4" x 3 inches wide) x 4
feet long. Just needed to split the board in two halves (front and
back). This required positioning the board on its side, up against the
Using a test board (thank goodness), I noticed that when I started
sawing the board, the cut was not straight. The blade seemed to
deflect outward - yielding a crooked cut. Not sure of the cause...
Your expertise and commentary is greatly appreciated.
I'm a believer that EVERY BS blade has it's own "lead angle" for
cutting. Mark a line 1/2" for edge of straight 2' scrap and saw on
the line about halfway of the length. Hold board firmly after
following the line and turn off the saw. That angle is the lead angle
for that blade. Set the fence matching that angle and resaw another
scrap. Should cut without deviation.
On 10 Sep 2003 07:56:11 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Albert) wrote:
I've read posts about zero lead for Suffolk blades but I've found the
several I've bought all have some lead. I just adjust the fence
accordingly and resaw.
On Thu, 11 Sep 2003 03:13:36 GMT, Steve Knight
Your fence isn't aligned with the track of the blade.
Take a piece of flat wood with a jointed edge, draw a parallel line to the
edge, then saw this board on the line freehand without a fence. You will
have to adjust the board to compensate to the blades track. Once the track
is established, stop sawing, stop the saw and then adjust the fence to the
jointed edge of the board. Remove the test piece and try a few cuts with
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
What Rumpty said but I'll add....
If you're using a standard blade then your blade tension may not be high
enough. Haven't seen a scale yet on a Jet or Delta BS that is anywhere near
accurate. Best advice, keep adding tension and test again. I have a 1/4"
blade I use once in awhile and the tension is double what the scale
indicates for a 1/4" blade.
If it's a low-tension blade, like a Suffolk, measure the horizontal
deflection as per their instructions. For a 3/4" wide blade, I believe they
say 1/2" deflection max at the center point but I don't have the
instructions here with me.
Also a 3tpi or a skip-tooth blade is recommended for resawing. More teeth
than that and the blade will wander since the gullets get filled and the
waste gets hot and gummy and it forces the blade to deflect (bow out).
Also, slow down so the blade has time to clear the gullets and stay cooler
if you don't have a resaw blade.
All bandsaws tend to have some deflection, however there are
exceptions. First tune your BS. If you don't already have Mark
Duginske's book get it and follow his directions on tuning your BS. If
you are using the stock blade you'll have to adjust the fence for
drift. Most times the blade drifts because of improperly set teeth.
I've been using Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery and I set the
fence parallel to the blade and I have no drift. They do make a
quality product with properly set teeth.
Usual disclaimers apply.
I agree on tuning your Band saw...
BUT I also use Timberwolf blades AND
until some other "super" blade comes along, that works better, They are
the only blades I will use...
HOWEVER...I have to adjust for drift with each and every blade...and
some require the fence to be at a very noticable angle... Which honestly
does not bother me in the least...only takes a minute or two to adjsut
the fence to the blade.
I just gave up on the whole fence idea and use a pivot and scribe mark to
set my feed angle. Allows me to clamp a pivot of appropriate size on the
right, so I can use the clumsy hand to steady the piece up against the
pivot, and my favored right hand to guide and feed.
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