My 10" band saw uses 72 5/8" inch blades.
Can I use a 73" Woodslicer blade and just turn the tension knob a
little "tighter" than the tension mark on the case?
Is 3/8" too much to compensate for?
The other option is 72", I'm not sure I can loosen the saw up enough
to get that small of a blade on the wheels.
I figure someone would ask that. :-)
The presenter said something to the effect of "with a reasonable
amount of pressure, like pushing with your finger until the tip turns
I'm familiar with this technique because I used to check the tension
of the steering cables on my kid's Soap Box Derby cars by pulling the
cables sideways, looking for a specific amount of deflection. When
people would see me doing it while holding my tape measure against the
side of the car they always wondered what the heck I was doing. When
I'd explain it to them and then let them try it, they really liked the
technique. You just had to get the feel for that "reasonable" amount
of pulling tension.
Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is resistance
on the upper wheel so you do not want to over tension the blade, you use
the same blade tension on a longer blade as you do a shorter blade.
The question here is if you can fit a 73" blade in place of the 72 5/8".
Maybe. Mount your regular blade and tighten the tension until there is
a small amount of tension. Mark the location height of the upper wheel.
Remove the blade and relocate the upper wheel to the previously marked
position. Now see if you can raise the upper wheel 1/2 of the difference
in length of the two blades. If you can raise it at leas hald that
distance the longer blade should work. And remember just because the
blade is longer you do not add more tension.
re: "Typically the tension indicator does not move until there is
resistance on the upper wheel".
As I posted earlier, an my band saw there's a big washer on the
tension shaft and a line on the housing with the words Tension Set
next to it.
As soon as you turn the tension knob to move the wheel up or down, the
washer moves with the wheel, even with no blade installed.
umm...that would be 72 5/8", not 75 5/8".
Yes, they too are probably available, and I know that I can have them
made at a local Saw and Knife shop.
However, since the Woodslicer blades have been given good reviews in
this forum, and the 73" should fit, I'm going to give them a try.
Your length difference was 5/8", mine is only 3/8".
I just took the blade off my saw and was able to adjust the tension
knob such that the indicator was more than a 1/2" beyond it's normal
I won't need that much with a blade that's only 3/8" longer than the
Big difference between the lengths of those blades.
Also, 5/8" difference on a 56" blade would probably equate to over an
inch difference on a 73" blade. I would also guess that the distance of
travel of the the tensioner on your saw is 1/4 to 1/3 the distance of a
73" length saw.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
"Michael Kenefick" wrote in message
I suspect not. My cheap band saw requires 56 1/8". I bought a Sears 56
3/4". It would not work, not enough travel in the tenchioning screw.
Mike in Ohio
On 12/17/2011 09:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Make it easy on yourself. Do what I and every other professional I know does
when needing a band saw blade. Go down to your local industrial supply, tell
them what you want and they will take it off the coil, cut it to length and
weld it together. There, exactly what you want. Why make it so hard?
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