cutting thin wood

First off, to be to closer to scale you want to go 1/8 x 11/32". 2x4's measure out to 1.5" x 3.5".

I would us Balsa wood and cut with an Exacta, or utility knife. Get the wood at a hobby store.

Reply to
Leon
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I think you should get rid of that rule of yours.

Reply to
Limey Lurker

Actually, if the scale is 1 inch = 1 foot, the correct dimensions for an in-scale 2 x 4 (actually 1.5" x 3.5") would be 1/8" x 9/32"

If the scale is 1 to 16, then the correct dimensions would be 3/32" x 7/32"

--Steve

Reply to
Steve

Yeah, my mistake, assuming the 1/8 as the base, 9/32" would be the closest to 32nds?

Reply to
Leon

No actually that would be the bad entry in my spread sheet. LOL

Reply to
Leon

The correct dimension is actually .275" which slightly less than 9/32"

--Steve

Reply to
Steve

Well if we are splitting hairs, ;~) If the 2x4 the true size is 1.5" x 3.5" and if the 1.5" is scaled down to .125"(1/8"), The other would be .29166.....

Reply to
Leon

If you've got a band saw and a planer you could try it this way--resaw a board into pieces maybe 5/16 thick, then plane to 1/4. Now, cut those into maybe 3/16 strips. Plane to 1/8. Experiment first to get the right dimensions so that you can plane both sides smooth with enough allowance to get your finish dimension--the amount of allowance you need is going to depend on your particular tools and skill level.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Do you know what most planers will do to a 1/8" x 1/4" strip?

I do, as I've tried it.

If I could reliably thickness plane to 1/8" thick without all kinds of faffing around with sleds, etc... I could have spent the cost of my Performax 22/44.

Reply to
B A R R Y

"Elsewhere" got chopped off the end of the last sentence by my brain!

Reply to
B A R R Y

Chews the Hell out of the first and last six inches or so, where the piece is not being held down by both rollers. Accept it and treat them as throwaways.

Of course I've got a radial arm saw. One thing it does _real_ good is cut thin slices off a piece of 1/4 inch stock. But since he probably doesn't have one . . .

Reply to
J. Clarke

Ooops - you're right. Not sure what I did there, but 9/32" is still pretty close.

--Steve

Reply to
Steve

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If your going to cut 1/8" basswood or balsa.

How about a paper cutter. This is on sale now. Set the fence and shear away. I may look into one of these myself.

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This may be overkill. It could also be used for pasteboard/drywall and balsa sheathing or clapboard siding although you can buy sheets that look like clapboard. ;-)

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or dry sandpaper makes excellent shingles also. You didn't mention how much detail was going into this project. If you go for lighting, put it in the ceilings. Solar power on the roof with battery backup is getting popular now.

Forget about plumbing.

Reply to
RLM

But the Performax works MUCH better for that kind of work. :-) Mine is a 10/20.

--Steve

Reply to
Steve

You probably did what I did the first time. LOL.

Reply to
Leon

Sometimes, it splinters them in the middle, too!

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Reply to
B A R R Y

It is easy to cut thin, narrow pieces like these with the right table saw accessory. I use a grip-tite magnetic featherboard with the roller guide. A sandpaper roller pulls the wood to the fence in front of the blade, and plastic springs hold the wood down before and after the blade. You push the first board thru the blade and under the springs with the next board. You have to use a zero clearance throatplate. The setup works on my aluminum saw. Had to clamp their steel plate to my fence to hold the magnets.There's a video on you tube.

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sure you use clear wood.

Reply to
Adam.Jaksha

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