I think most batteries in the 14.4v and up range would last more than
30 minutes screwing deck screws.
The tradeoff in cordless is weight vs capacity and increased torque.
I found that the 14.4v Makita was a reasonable balance of these
factors (though my hand is smaller so the 18v gets heavy faster than
for you he-men).
I find cordless are easier for screws because of the low end torque vs
the harder to control for screws corded models. Can be done, but so
much easier with a cordless. Haven't tried a dedicated screw gun
(corded) for something like deck screws but they sure are sweet for
drywall. Plus, the dang cord isn't always in your way.
Might want to consider predrilling your holes - makes it lots easier.
Corded fine here.
For general around the hose, shop etc a 14.4 Volt is what I use...
I just finished a dec this spring and I did use an 18 V cordless BUT
most of the deck work was accomplished with an extension cord and a
regular 1/2 in electric drill...just faster lighter and easier to
use...(with the exception of the cord that is)...
Too many choices!!! I've a Craftsman 14.4 I bought on sale and love it.
Built my 12x16 shop using it - in part. No problem driving in 3"
screws when necessary - plenty of power. Anything longer than that and
I'd get an inexpensive elec drill though. They have more cojones!
A lot of the various voltages are curtesy "Tim the Tool Man" marketing
-- "More Power". Before too long someone will come out with a 110volt
drill and sing the praises of not having to stop and recharge it.
I like 9.6v for assembly work in the shop. I like 14.4v for carpentry. Yes,
higher voltage (more power) is nice, but the tradeoff is the weight of the
Most important for your deck building is two battery packs and a one hour
Every tool has its place. At work, a couple of guys bought 18V drills and
use them to change some name plates in aluminum tooling. I'm talking 12-32
screws. After two uses, they are forbidden to use them and must use the 3.6
volt B & D screwdriver that has yet to strip the threads.
Didn't the phrase "strip the threads" catch your eye there?
The bozos using them evidently forgot they had clutches and
the management evidently wanted to slow the work down and
make it more threadsafe. ;)
REAL men don't need free plans
http://diversify.com REAL websites
They are just more portable if you are moving around a large piece driving
screws. You are not tripping over the cord.
I very seldom actually drill with my cordless. It always has a bit driver
adapter in it. I use a more powerful corded drill for drilling the hole and I
run in the screw with the cordless. Sometimes I will even have 3 drills out.
Good question. Drills are meant to drill and cordless machines are really
screwdrivers, I guess.
I can't imagine a cordless that would be able to shoot holes for Tapcons and
have a battery you would want to carry.
If I am doing light duty drilling or shooting screws I grab a cordless. If I
want to drill some serious holes I plug into the grid.
I had the same idea but in a moment of laziness (and having only a
couple holes that needed to be made) I grabbed the 18v Milwaukee
cordless and drilled into brick without a problem. Smallish hole
(~1/4 - 3/8") and nice sharp bit, but I was nevertheless surprised -
thought it would take more effort. No hassle at all. Cordless today
seem to handle well beyond light duty hole drilling.
Now, if you've got a bunch of holes to drill (into masonry), then I'd
certainly take the time to set up a corded hammer drill.
On 09 Sep 2003 01:47:10 GMT, email@example.comGreg (Gfretwell) wrote:
I have never seen one with a clutch. Not a feature because it would
probably take sales from the drills that are the most profitable. The
cordless drills are basically free in a kit and you buy the 2 batteries and
charger. 3 years ago I bought a new drill kit because the kit with 2
batteries was 3 or 4 dollars more than 2 batteries by themselves. The
batteries poop out and you buy more batteries. Not totally unlike cheap
printers that come with the tiny and expensive ink refills .
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