Close call

[Z3Driver]

For the first time in 20 years of using a table saw, I got nailed by the kickback genie. I was trimming 4 short (5"x5") boards for a project, taking 3/4" off one of the sides. I trimmed the first three against the rip fence without a problem. When I use the TS, I never stand directly in front of the blade. On this cut, I was on the right side of the blade, feeding the work by hand. On cut number 4,I must have turned the board a fraction and the blade kicked that sucker back on an angle and it caught me right in the heart. Scared the crap out of me. On reflection, I shoulda used my featherboard and a push stick. Lesson learned.

[dpb]

Bad call...

W/L >= 1 w/ small pieces is recipe for causing what happened.

Use a sled instead.

--

[Larry Jaques]

Featherboard, holddown piece, and pushstick.

Congrats on your luck.

-- The problem with borrowing money from China is that thirty minutes later, you feel broke again. --Steve Bridges as Obama

[Swingman]

No splitter?

Still, a warning shot is good thing.

(And 5" violates my rule regarding proximity of body parts as a push stick).

[Robatoy]

You used a coupon........and you get only so many....

[Leon]

Glad to hear that you were not badly hurt. And as a reminder that standing anywhere behind the blade is in the danger zone.

[Morgans]

"Z3Driver" wrote

by the kickback genie. I was trimming 4 short (5"x5") boards for a project, taking 3/4" off one of the sides. I trimmed the first three against the rip fence without a problem. When I use the TS, I never stand directly in front of the blade. On this cut, I was on the right side of the blade, feeding the work by hand. On cut number 4,I must have turned the board a fraction and the blade kicked that sucker back on an angle and it caught me right in the heart. Scared the crap out of me.

I have a rule for avoiding this type of problem, that I teach my students... Might be good for you, too.

With the blade set at the right minimum height, measure the distance along the blade that is above the table. Let's say 5 inches is what that measures. I say that the board being cut has to be the length of the blade plus half of that distance added back on, so 5 plus 1/2 (2.5), so the wood needs to be 7.5 inches long, against the fence. The fence also must not be set much further from the blade than the length of the board.

Use the miter gauge if it does not fit the above conditions, and of course, never use the rip fence and the miter gauge at the same time.

-- Jim in NC

[Han]

Z3Driver wrote in news:Nyf7q.3104$ [e-mail]:

The smaller the pieces you're cutting, the greater the danger. I cut a small piece of 1/4" luan plywood a few years back and the cutoff hitched a ride over the top of the sawblade, and crossed from right to left side until middle and index fingers of my left hand stopped it (I'm right- handed). I needed a bit of plastic surgery to repair a tendon. Not quite as good as new now, but serviceable. Just didn't like the whole experience.

[m II]

Standing anywhere behind the **wood**. I would love to see you stand in front of the blade.

Glad to hear that you were not badly hurt. And as a reminder that standing anywhere behind the blade is in the danger zone.

[wb8nbs]

Teach your students to make and use a crosscut sled.

[Baron]

Jim in NC,

I don't quite get the "The fence also must not be set much further from the blade than the length of the board." Assume you are ripping a 2X4 that is a foot long. The fence distance could not possibly be even close to the length of the board. If you are cross cutting, setting the fence at the board length would mean the board misses the blade.

Where did I get it wrong and what is the correct interpretation?

TIA.

[Bill]

If you are cross cutting, setting the fence at the

You would Not cross-cut a twobyfour using a fence--at least not during the cut. Someone else may be better able to describe your options.

[krw]

Right. The fence cannot be (usefully) set further from the blade than the length of the board, so you're OK. If you're cross-cutting, don't use the fence! Use a cross-cut sled, as has been said here a number of times.

The problem arises when the board twists when it's in contact with the blade. It's a sure way to have it come rocketing back at you. If the board isn't longer than the distance from the blade to the fence, there isn't enough of it on the fence to keep it against the fence.

[Morgans]

Teach your students to make and use a crosscut sled.

I do, when there is a need. With two power miter saws and a 14"RAS sitting around, there is not often a need.

-- Jim in NC

[Morgans]

Jim in NC,

I don't quite get the "The fence also must not be set much further from the blade than the length of the board." Assume you are ripping a 2X4 that is a foot long. The fence distance could not possibly be even close to the length of the board. If you are cross cutting, setting the fence at the board length would mean the board misses the blade.

Where did I get it wrong and what is the correct interpretation?

TIA.

I will try again.

If the saw blade is out of the table top 6" along the direction of travel, the wood being _ripped_ should be at least 9" long. Doing this keeps enough wood on the rip fence to keep it from turning sideways while it is beside the blade, which of course would cause a big kickback.

The second part of the rule is that if the piece being ripped is 9" long, it should not be ripped more than 9" wide. Doing so would allow the wood to again turn sideways, causing kickback.

I know, there are some exceptions for the experienced woodworker, but this rule is to keep 14 to 18 year olds from doing something drastic-bad. They can learn to ignore my rules after I am not responsible for keeping their fingers on their hands.

That work for you? ;-)

-- Jim in NC

[Baron]

Thanks. Now I understand. I initially thought you were using the fence during ripping. I now understand that it simply serves as a reminder to not allow too wide of a rip, crosscut sleds not withsatnding.