Changed blades from a Forrest 3/32 to 1/8 and now I'm getting woodburn on the fence side of the cut when ripping. Tried changing feed rate and it helped to a certain extent but it persists. What's up with this? TIA Tom
Blade is warped? Fence isnt' parallel to blade? Splitter misaligned?
scott
Ripping Cherry?
What Forrest Blade?
Dave
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Wood burn in general or with a different kind of wood, like cherry or maple? Do you get burn with the thin blade and the SAME board? Check the 1/8" blade run out.
I wonder if the thicker blade has too many teeth for the cut that you're making. I mention that because some of the solutions that I've seen suggested for burning problems include thinner blades and/or fewer teeth (especially for ripping).
Increasing the blade height might make a difference, but may also increase the possibility of kickback.
Also, you might double-check the blade and fence alignment. The "rear" teeth should just barely touch the wood on the fence side of the cut. I don't know why any alignment problems would only be evident with the thicker blade, unless maybe there is a splitter that was helping to hold the wood off the the rear of the thinner blade.
Is it possible that the teeth have been dulled on the fence side of the 1/8" blade?
Just some thoughts. Remember, I know even LESS than Sgt. Schultz!
"George" wrote
Quite so! For people interested in following this further, the arguments about blade height are set out on my web site - Circular Sawbench Safety - Blades.
Maybe it proves that you can't win, can yer?
Jeff G
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