Can you give me some help on making this angle cut?

What you've described should work with careful set-up.

I'd be inclined to use a 22.5-degree camfer bit in my router with a straight guide because I'd be more confident in being able to cut the angle exactly along the full length of the board.

If budget isn't a primary concern, a 22.5-degree lock-miter bit used the same way might work even better.

MLCS has both bits, and the camfer bit can be seen at

...if I'm reading this right, I'd probably turn the faceframe upside down and run it through the TS on the short side...if the width is still an issue just grab a piece of ply and temp it up to serve for bearing...rather than run up against the fence, use a sacrificial board of some kind clamped to the fence, notched-out slighty to clear the blade...I'm thinking you have a left-tilt saw...

cg

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the piece vertical.

achieve angles that leave the workpiece with bevels of 45 degrees or less. He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 - 22-1/2).

Do you own a decent jack or jointer plane? Knocking the corners off to

Len

I counted it out on my fingers.

I agree with the router table solution.

Quick, easy, safe, and "very" accurate.

I own a large 8" jo> I am making a vanity to replace on in my vacation house. The current vanity

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I screwed up on this point myself awhile back in the wreck. And a number of folks pointed out that I was delusional and sorely lacking in math skills.

As Steve points out above, "He needs a final bevel of 62-1/2 degrees (90 -

A lesson learned long ago, after much effort to do it other ways, is to look at all cuts from the saw's perspective. Get down to the level of the cutting table and look at it from the saw blades's perspective. Difficult cuts become more clear that way. You are not standing over it trying to figure it out from a vertical human perspective.

Ya know, a zen thing. You are the saw blade. You are wise in the ways of cutting. You know how to make this cut. Etc, etc.

OK, I got it out of my system. I will now go back into curmudgeon mode now.

I don't know what you guys are on about. He already has a mating (or gluing) surface that's 90 degrees from the face of the panel; if he runs the whole assembled frame through vertically (because he doesn't have enough fence capacity to run it through flat on the table) with the blade at "0" (90 degrees from the table), he can't cut *any* new mating surface, now can he? He needs to remove a 22-1/2 degree slice, but he would have to bevel the blade 67-1/2 degrees (sorry, I said 62-1/2 earlier) to get that, and last time I checked a table saw blade can only bevel up to 45 degrees. Am I missing something here? :-)

I am a rack, I'm a piiiiiiinion... (my apologies to Mr. Paul Simon.)

The universe is the motor. In all reality, the board being cut, stands still. It is the saw and the entire room that is moving.

Thanks for the chuckle, grass-hoppa.

I am making cuts on both mating surfaces at 22.5 degrees. That will give me maxiumum wood to wood contact and will give me an angle of 45 degrees from the face of the vanity to the shorter section.

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

Yeah it is Friday.

You're right but he could easily make a sled that is at 22 1/2 deg and make the cut with the blade at 45. Or... make a 45deg sled and bevel the blade to 22 1/2 or... make a 30deg sled and ...

like this:

I'm not quite following this suggestion Charlie. I do have a left tilting blade. At full extension, I have about 24.5 inches from fence to blade. The face frame is 27" wide.

I don't have a jointer so I would do it on the TS with a sled I built for other purposes. Something along the lines of this to hold the piece vertical.

I do not own a jack plane but I would think it would be tough to get so precise an angle. However, since I don't own one I don't know what I am talking about!

current

Set a bevel gauge for 22-1/2 degrees and check as you go. Same way you'd check the angles on slats for a wooden bucket.

Len

wouldn't it be a lot easier to make a 45 in one side, and leave the other at