Along with all the other great suggestions. If you use pneumatic tools = in more than one area hide a hard line with quick connects in various = areas of your wall that way you use less hose and keep your shop = cleaner. Puff
Hi,
I'm getting ready to convert a garage into a shop. It would involve insulating, wiring and sheetrocking the walls. I was just looking for advice on things not to forget to do before the sheetrock goes up.
Thanks,
Nick
Plenty of recepticals at about 48" high so they are easily reached when plugging in tools. Consider dropped recepticals for some of the tools also. One to the left of teh bandsaw prevents tripping over a wire and will not interfere with sawing.
Ligting over all tools, of course. How about an exhaust fan? Sure you can open the door, but a fan near where you do finishing will vent fumes and not all (but some) of the heat in the cooler months.
If you know the position of some heavy cabinets or shelves, consider a few horizontal nailers between the studs.
1/2" cdx plywood and white paint should cost about the same as sheet rock and mud and paint. also with plywood you can hang cabinets , tool holders ect... much easier without having to find studs. skeez
Do a scaled drawing with scaled equipment sizes. Plan wiring, phone, dust collection, heating, lighting etc from there. Don't forget wall space for tool racks/cabinets, clamps, material and jigs.
Good luck
Cheers,
Andy
How about air lines, telephone, and cable for TV, if not for now, for the future? Along with dust collection. Maybe speaker wires for a sound system.
Just some ideas, it is much easier now, and it will look nicer.
Edwin Pawlowski suggested...
Make 'em 49" or 50" high at the bottom. If you ever lean a sheet of plywood against a wall, you can still plug something in over it. Space them every four to six feet; you'll be glad you did.
Jim
I also did mine with 1/2 cdx, but used the tongue & groove type. That way the joints comeout perfect. Makes it even better than sheetrock.
Also definitely would put 3 or 4" DC pipe between the studs, and have
90's come out at the bottom to feed machines.--Caleb
In addition to everything else, consider soundproofing. Ask if you're interested and/or Google for past conversations.
4" studs on 6" plates will be a part of my next (first ) shop construction.-- Mark
Make that the bottom of the receptaclke at 50" so both outlets can be used. Another thought: I spaced my outlets 6' or so apart, some 4', and the ones I'm happiest with are the 4 way outlets on two sides of the center beam supports. Give some thought to using receptacles with 4 outlets on 2 circuits.
Most codes won't allow wooden walls in a shop that's in an attached garage. If that's the case, lay in some 2x4s or 2x6s between studs as nailers. Make them at 2-3 different heights, but use the same heights all the way around. You'll then know exactly where on your Sheetrock wall you can hang the heavy stuff without having to screw around with hollow wall anchors.
Charlie Self "Character is much easier kept than recovered." Thomas Paine
Plan a first-rate cyclone dust collection system. Stay away from the systems that use cloth bags. Invest some time and get educated at
CE
Nick wrote:
Think about air lines and DC piping while you have the walls down
You cannot have too many outlets, both 115 and 220
Also think about lighting the work area and how you will accomplish this.
Heating and cooling for those times when it is not a balmy 60-75 degrees outside
Th>Hi,
|Jim Wilson writes: | |>Edwin Pawlowski suggested... |>> Plenty of recepticals at about 48" high so they are easily reached when |>> plugging in tools |>
|>Make 'em 49" or 50" high at the bottom. If you ever lean a sheet of |>plywood against a wall, you can still plug something in over it. Space |>them every four to six feet; you'll be glad you did. | |Make that the bottom of the receptaclke at 50" so both outlets can be used. |Another thought: I spaced my outlets 6' or so apart, some 4', and the ones I'm |happiest with are the 4 way outlets on two sides of the center beam supports. |Give some thought to using receptacles with 4 outlets on 2 circuits.
Yes. When I built my garage I put in an electrical panel with separate breakers for each wall, lights and door openers. I have outlets both at 50" above the floor and at 12". Since I'm in Tucson, I put in evaporative cooling, but no heating. Also 240V several places, including overhead drops. I also have a water line.
| |Most codes won't allow wooden walls in a shop that's in an attached garage.
Could be, I would have to check our local codes, but I suspect you are correct. My garage is still unfinished (open) studs except for the wall common to the living space which must be fire rated. I have 5/8" fire code sheetrock on the garage side and 3/4" on the living space side and a steel fire rated pedestrian door. If it is to remain a garage then fire is always an issue. Bringing a hot car or truck inside with 20 or 30 gallons of gasoline on board is always a worry. Even without the cars, a few gallons of paint thinner, etc. is always an issue.
If your roof joists will handle it, you might think about some hard points where you can add overhead storage later. My I-joists are still open and I just finished hanging a rack on some threaded rod for overhead lumber storage.
when I built mine I found a load of peg board on sale for $5 a 4x8 sheet. Didn't hang sheetrock, used the peg board.
A Murphy bed for when the wife is pissed because you spend all your time out in your shop instead of where you should be, with her doing what ever the hell it is she wants you to do with her at that moment in time.... oops sorry I might have some issues. ;-)
KY
Jelly?
-- Mark
Rather than sheetrock, consider using 3/4 particle board. Costs more, but allows you to nail shelving, fixtures, whatever, wherever you want.
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