On 26 Jan 2004 00:29:03 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Charlie Self)
|Jim Wilson writes:
|>Edwin Pawlowski suggested...
|>> Plenty of recepticals at about 48" high so they are easily reached when
|>> plugging in tools
|>Make 'em 49" or 50" high at the bottom. If you ever lean a sheet of
|>plywood against a wall, you can still plug something in over it. Space
|>them every four to six feet; you'll be glad you did.
|Make that the bottom of the receptaclke at 50" so both outlets can be used.
|Another thought: I spaced my outlets 6' or so apart, some 4', and the ones I'm
|happiest with are the 4 way outlets on two sides of the center beam supports.
|Give some thought to using receptacles with 4 outlets on 2 circuits.
Yes. When I built my garage I put in an electrical panel with
separate breakers for each wall, lights and door openers. I have
outlets both at 50" above the floor and at 12". Since I'm in Tucson,
I put in evaporative cooling, but no heating. Also 240V several
places, including overhead drops. I also have a water line.
|Most codes won't allow wooden walls in a shop that's in an attached garage.
Could be, I would have to check our local codes, but I suspect you are
correct. My garage is still unfinished (open) studs except for the
wall common to the living space which must be fire rated. I have 5/8"
fire code sheetrock on the garage side and 3/4" on the living space
side and a steel fire rated pedestrian door. If it is to remain a
garage then fire is always an issue. Bringing a hot car or truck
inside with 20 or 30 gallons of gasoline on board is always a worry.
Even without the cars, a few gallons of paint thinner, etc. is always
If your roof joists will handle it, you might think about some hard
points where you can add overhead storage later. My I-joists are
still open and I just finished hanging a rack on some threaded rod for
overhead lumber storage.