Worried about hanging cabinets and such, just do the cleat thing. 1" x 4"
80" off the floor with another one parallel about 60" of the floor. Put a 45 deg angle on the high one, with a mating angle on the back of your cabinet. Then, you can hang the cabinet anywhere, even when you decide to move them.
Lots of good advice here. I'll add:
Take digital photos of all the walls right before the sheetrock goes up. It's really useful to be able to not only see where the studs are, but where the wires and any other in wall stuff goes at a later time.
And put in more receptacles then you ever thought you'll need. I put in lots and still wish I had more.
Jim
I knew I'd lose the photos or trash the hard drive eventually so when I mudded the drywall on the ceiling, I avoided going over the screws a second time after the first coat dried and those little depressions formed.
Now, even with paint, I can see the little dimples, and _know_ just where the ceiling joists are. It made hanging the light fixtures a _lot_ easier.
Michael Translation: " I hate drywall mudding, got lazy, and am reaping a really lucky benefit from it. :) "
Etch the floor and paint it (epoxy or porch paint) before the other work. It will keep the nastyass concrete dust out of your lungs (MAN, that stuff is nasty!) and a white floor is really nice for finding dropped items and for helping make the place well lit.
I like the shops which put up the drywall sideways and left an area in the center of the wall to run piping and wiring at the 4' height. It allows you to insulate well while the center maintenance area is accessible. Insulate everything.
Plan for lots of 120 and 240v outlets, good overhead fluor. lighting (perhaps on 2 separate circuits), separate incan. task lighting for the tools and work areas, etc.
I had a single outlet on each wall plus a quad drop in the center. I run an extension cord from the center to anywhere I need it if there isn't an outlet handy, but if I had bare walls, I'd run more outlets at waist or higher height. You'll probably want an electrician to run a subpanel for you, but check with them to see if they'll let you do most of the work (if you're comfy with that) letting them finish connections and signoff for a fee.
Paint the entire thing, from top to bottom, with pure white eggshell/satin paint. With everything white, I have a well lit 2-car shop using five 4' twin-bulb fluors.
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Insulate between studs Seal interface between studs and concrete block with RTV
MARK THE STUD LOCATIONS ON THE GARAGE FLOOR!!! MARK THE STUD LOCATIONS ON THE GARAGE CEILING!!!
If you've run power inside the wall, put those anti-screw plates up
Once you have sheetrock up with a few screws, draw line between the ceiling mark and the floor mark so you know where to put rest of screws... Paint walls and ceiling flat white and add four or six electronic ballast shop lights ( eight foot long ones ). Use conduit for surface mount power distribution. DON'T USE THE CONDUIT AS A GROUND; RUN A GROUND WIRE TOO. Don't run romex where it could be wacked by a flying board or otherwise damaged. I also put those plastic tubes over the fluorescent bulbs to prevent breakage (or minimize flying glass).
A hundred amp breaker panel with breakers is available at the BORG for less than $100. Use 20 amp 120V sockets and #12 wire, 30 amp 240V sockets and #10 wire. Run the lights from somewhere else, not on this panel. Reason - you always want to be able to turn on the lights, but may want to lock out the entire power tool supply if you have kids. I am installing a single twist-lock socket on the switched light circuit to power a shop dust filter. I need/want the air filter to go on with the lights but the twist-lock socket keeps unauthorized use to a minimum.
Just got done with my place where i live(according to my wife)I call it a garage. After installing all the insulation and electrical i covered it with tile bored. It is the white shiney stuff(very bright) that is used in bath rooms. Never have to paint and very easy to clean. Cost about $10.00 A 4x8 sheet. If you figure it out it is cheaper then dry wall . No priming or painting. I also used dry wall screws for every thng. That way if you ever want to add or change something it is not a problem. Hope this helps Stan
Thanks for all the advice.
Nick
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