I'm sure Robert has a better answer but tiling under the vanity makes it easier for the next "re-do" I build my own vanities so I simply build them the same size or larger. BUT if you are re tiling it is not that much more trouble to cover the whole floor.
They "whys" are as important as the "hows." There are newer technologies available that can save you a a lot of work, possibly money, and which may do a better job than what has always been used.
I'm just saying make sure the conditions that require doing what they are telling you to do actually exist in your situation.
Nope. I like that one!
There is only one instance where I don't pull toilet and vanity, and that i s when it is a "landlord" job, where my client wants the work done as cheap ly as possible. Otherwise, I agree that it is best to pull the work. Be a ware that if you don't pull the cabinet, you can have some screwy looking e ffects depending on the thickness of your tile, the adhesive, the board, et c. that can creep up about an inch depending on what you do.
I pull the cabs, baseboards and toilets for a better, cleaner install. I d on't like a funky look to it where you can feel the cabinet height is off w hen you are washing your hands, the baseboards look short, and the toilet i s now part of a permanent install from being grouted in. Besides, when you pull , the tile job in a bath is a snap! A lot fewer cuts a nd plenty of room to work on the floor instead of wedging yourself in there to work. When you start your work, remember to take the entry door off the hinges as well for the duration of the job to get that out of your way, to o. It is surprising how much faster and how much better a job turns out wh en access is easy.
And as Leon said, building your own vanities has its place. If you are asp iring to do some cabinetry, the bath is a great place to start. A simple c arcass style constructed cabinet can be quite satisfying to build, and can give you enough cabinet experience to be proud of yourself. A good carcass , nice facing, well fitted doors and a drawer bank is a nice size, doable p roject.
Be aware that if you pull the cabinet you will need to take that new oscill ating tool and raise the holes for your plumbing in the cabinet back the co rresponding amount of your tile/substrate thickness. Likewise, you will ne ed to reset the top as it is no doubt caulked in at the edges, and may need to reset a mirror.
When you do a project like this, think like a contractor. Imagine yourself walking into the bathroom and thinking, "what would be my very first thing to do?", make yourself a list of all the tasks needed, form a time line, a nd then a final list of organization and schedule. With that, you will lea ve out almost nothing, you can always tell what needs to be done next, and where you are time-wise in the project when your significant other says, "O K, tell me again how much longer until I can use this bathroom again".
Robert
And "filling the gaps" looks like the hack it is.
You won't be able to match the grout, either, so best just bite the bullet and tile under the damned thing. Tiling is a lot of work, it's not that much more work to pull a vanity and really saves the work of cutting little pieces around it, to say nothing of the added planning complications.
is when it is a "landlord" job, where my client wants the work done as che aply as possible. Otherwise, I agree that it is best to pull the work. Be aware that if you don't pull the cabinet, you can have some screwy looking effects depending on the thickness of your tile, the adhesive, the board, etc. that can creep up about an inch depending on what you do.
don't like a funky look to it where you can feel the cabinet height is off when you are washing your hands, the baseboards look short, and the toilet is now part of a permanent install from being grouted in. Besides, when y ou pull , the tile job in a bath is a snap! A lot fewer cuts and plenty of room to work on the floor instead of wedging yourself in the re to work. When you start your work, remember to take the entry door off t he hinges as well for the duration of the job to get that out of your way, too. It is surprising how much faster and how much better a job turns out when access is easy.
spiring to do some cabinetry, the bath is a great place to start. A simple carcass style constructed cabinet can be quite satisfying to build, and ca n give you enough cabinet experience to be proud of yourself. A good carca ss, nice facing, well fitted doors and a drawer bank is a nice size, doable project.
llating tool and raise the holes for your plumbing in the cabinet back the corresponding amount of your tile/substrate thickness. Likewise, you will need to reset the top as it is no doubt caulked in at the edges, and may ne ed to reset a mirror.
lf walking into the bathroom and thinking, "what would be my very first thi ng to do?", make yourself a list of all the tasks needed, form a time line, and then a final list of organization and schedule. With that, you will l eave out almost nothing, you can always tell what needs to be done next, an d where you are time-wise in the project when your significant other says, "OK, tell me again how much longer until I can use this bathroom again".
Thanks, Robert! It's pretty great getting professional advice here. While I'm in there, I think I'll just go ahead and pull the big tub too and put i n a whirlpool. Might as well do it all.
Mike
I retract my previous statement about not pulling the vanity. Like you, I was thinking about the "landlord" type of job. I forgot how annoying it is the see the shrunken toe kick and weird trim transitions around cabinets like that.
I have to see some pretty horrendous trim/tile awkwardness every day in my own home due to previous owners who fancied themselves "flippers" after watching to many HGTV shows. :-)
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