Hi, I am in the process of building some bookcases to be permanently
attached to the walls (some recessed space in the "library" to be). I
wanted to use some fairly thick stock at 1" at a width of about 16".
The dimensions of the two book cases to be are roughly 9 feet long at
about 9 feet high with several shelves. The questions I have are in
regards to the wood I want to use. I can get 1" reclaimed oak at about
$9 per foot cut and planed, and I figure at around $1,000 total for
materials I can build the recessed bookcases. Do you think this is a
good price and is oak a good choice for my bookcases? I appreciate any
advice! Thanks! -Myk
Depends upon the width, the cut, and the type of oak. If the width is 16",
as you indicate that's roughly $6.77 bf. That's on the high end for narrow
stock Red Oak, but not unreasonably so for FAS dimensioned lumber that wide
in some parts of the country.
(If it is 16" wide 4/4 QSWO, I'll bring a big trailer and we can both load
What type of finish? If you are going to do a dark walnut stain, you might
want to consider going with walnut.
If you like the various finish choices you have with oak, it is a good
choice of a hardwood for just about any woodworking project.
The price is not totally out of the ball park for the sizes that you have
indicated however you can pay about 1/2 that price depending where you are
located and if you are willing to glue up pieces to get the 16" dimension.
Typically there is a healthy up charge for boards that are 10"-12" and
wider. In SE Texas Oak can be bought rough cut from the saw mill for about
$2 per board foot, rough cut, and from a lumber yard for about $3.50 per
board foot in S2S ripped straight on edge.
Why not use oak plywood for the case and solid oak for the
shelves. You get the same appearance for much less. The
plywood would be very stable and just as easy to finish.
Use the hardwood for the face frames and the shelves and
put a hardwood edge on your shelves.
A solid oak bookcase sounds great in theory but you could
find much better uses for all that hardwood.
I would build a series of boxes "about" 24"x96" and tie
them all together with my face frame. This method will be
MUCH easier to move around and put into place.
Yep. 4 sheets of good 3/4 ply for $250-$300.
Long as I'm trimming it out anyway, I'd make the shelves out of ply,
too. Another 2 sheets, call it $120-$150. So far, you're in for
$370-$450, and all you've got left is face frames and edge banding, and
the thing is dimensionally stable, and no one will ever notice or care
that it's not solid oak.
I know it's kind of a non-answer to the question, but I'm with Pat.
Thanks Guys for the priceless info! I probably will go with the rough
sawn oak straight from a mill or lumber yard and glue it up for my
width. On that note, would anyone have any suggestions on where to
tackle the acquisition in the north east area? I live in Central NJ
but I am willing to travel North, South, East, or West a few hours if I
can get myself a good deal!
Contact: Frank Martin
Address: 212 E Mountain Road
Hillsborough, NJ 08844
I am a satisfied customer of both of these operations. Agincourt has a better
selection of species, but for oak, you may do better on price with East Coast
Log. For either, call in advance to make sure you're visiting at a suitable
If you're willing to drive a couple of hours, there are a few excellent
larger-volume hardwood dealers in southeastern PA, in Amish country.
This is 16" lumber? I have never seen 16" oak, so I can't really say what a
fair price would be.
You could probably have someone glue up wood for you for half that price.
Heck, you could buy the clamps and glue up yourself and then have the
Since it is recessed, perfect grain matching doesn't seem important.
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