bonding wood to metal?

Dec 14, 2003 5 Replies

anyone have any experience bonding metal (lead) to wood, I need suggestions of what type of glue/epoxy you have used and if it worked well with hard use



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Plain old Devcon or Hobbico 2 part, 45 minute to 2 hour epoxy works gerat. For weighted bases (bookends-lamps,ect) I've had great success routing out a hollow and pouring in a mix of epoxy and lead birdshot. About a 2:1 mix of shot:epoxy.

Don't know what your use is... for sheet lead I'd use some type of silicone glue/caulk, for a block, I'd also screw it in.

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suggestions of

I have some lead tire weights for aluminum wheels. they have double stick foam mounting tape on them. Bridger

Pinewood Derby car? :)

I bore out a weight chamber and fill the hole with molten lead poured from a shop-built cruicible. Someone said I'm going to get lead poisoning if I keep melting lead like that, but I only do it once a year, and I'm not too worried about it. The resulting form-fitting slug holds well with no glue.

Well, I don't know about lead, but can testify that Elmer's polyurethane (sort of similar to Gorilla glue, but cheaper) works really well for gluing iron to plywood.

I built a stand a few months back to hold a pair of 200lb toolboxes, where the only support under the boxes was a piece of 1.5x1.5x3/16" angle iron let into a 1/4" deep dado in 3/4" plywood. I just glued the angle iron into the plywood. I didn't use any mechanical fasteners at all. The bond seems to be unbelieveably strong, and it was a hell of a lot less trouble than epoxy - no mixing. Granted, there isn't any shear force on this joint (the bottom edge of the dado is carrying that) but that joint is really strong - I whacked it with a pony sledge a few times at the outer edges of the angle iron, and it isn't going anywhere. Just be sure to wear gloves, the stuff will NOT come off your hands.

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