Birch Plywood For Painted Book Case - $50 vs. $75

g there all the time, and I have never noticed that stuff. It HAS to be it . I pulled my HD receipt and that is the only thing that matches the descr iption and price on the receipt.

ct. One of the problems I have with some of the birch products is that the y don't always hold paint well. No idea why. This stuff grabbed the finis h well.

e for products and email myself their location so I can walk in, grab what I want, and go. I have found that they do not update their product descrip tions as needed, certainly their quantity count is almost always wrong, and even the descriptions don't match. It comes from having a busy IT person that doesn't understand the product nomenclature.

I established it as "my Home Depot", the one by my office. It is a small HD, and they simply don't have the room for that stuff. The HD where it wa s purchased is double the size of "mine", and they show 51 sheets.

ff. Even my HD rep couldn't tell me what the face ply is on that product. We think that it is some kind of softer maple, but then another batch comes in and it looks more like birch. His inquiry to their supplier is that "it depends" on the batch. Regardless of what it actually is, I have had a lo t of problems with chipping, and the veneer peeling. It is hard to transpo rt to the job as the edges are very fragile. I will buy my "Chiliply" befo re I get that stuff. I have even had the veneer raise in a vein about 4" lo ng and the width of a pencil when finishing with one of my ammonia laden la tex enamels.

a palm plant on my forehead is in order, but then in the other hand I am g lad to know I can get it at the next closest store when I need it.

Just trying to give back a little. :-)

Case in point:

I'm a weekend hobbyist at best, but while my stuff may sometimes lack finesse, it's never underbuilt. This set of bookcases (only half is shown) was built in 2013 from 3/4 Birch Ply and maple 1x2 (and 1x3 at the top and bottom). There's also a 1/2" ply back, screwed into each shelf. The shelves are dadoed into the uprights.

It was immediately filled - completely - with books. There's been no sag whatsoever. I think a little caulk might even make it seaworthy. :)

You can gibe the illusion of a thin shelf by tapering the hardwood strip on the shelf front. For example, with a 3/4" shelf, make the hardwood strip 1" deep, make the front edge 5/8" or 1/2" and taper to 3/4" leaving a 1/4" section where the strip meets the shelf plywood.

-BR

Iggy wrote in news:SS4NB.24975$ snipped-for-privacy@fx26.am:

No, you're not. You're on the old and proven USENET.

If you're annoyingly repeating what others said, you need to learn to TRIM, not delete the context completely.

Puckdropper

That is my experience as well. Our Lowes & HD both carry this pre-primed, laminated and finger-jointed stuff from Brazil that is super cheap and super stable. It comes in a bunch of different widths. It's perfect for painted shelves.

Inexpensive, no cups, straight as an arrow, strong & stable, ready for finish coat. Can't go wrong, especially considering the time it saves.

That's probably one big reason for the price difference (back to the OP's OQ). I haven't seen ANY plywood that doesn't have that super-thin finish veneer, but at leas the stuff you pay $72 for has a finish veneer that's the thickness of a business card instead of a sheet of paper. I've also seen delamination in the middle of a sheet which was only discovered after ripping.

I guess one has to weigh the cost of having to return a sheet and start over to paying the extra up front.

ill be a face

Nice. How deep are your shelves? The actual shelves, not including the face frame. Are you happy with what you choose as a depth?

I know that it all depends on what the shelves will be used for, and I have dimension in mind for my project, but I'm just curious as to what depth you chose, why you chose it and how it's worked out after all these years.

There are actually in a friend/client's home, not mine. But IIRC, they were nominal depths of 12" and 16".

Consider a sheet of plywood at 48" x 96". Those are both perfect multiples of 12 and 16. This means you can get the most out of an entire sheet of plywood with no waste. What about the saw kerf, you ask? That's why I call it "nominal" sizing.

Using these rough sizes allows you to quickly tear down your sheet good to rough sizes (even using a circular saw and straightedge). Then you can add your hardwood edge banding, then rip to finished size. You probably can see in the pic, but I'm pretty sure I put edge bands on both sides of the shelves. I stood on some and had no deflection. The center shelves are fixed to add stability/strength to the cases.

The clients recently moved out of the home and were disappointed to leave them there. They told me they still looked and performed like new. BTW, I made every piece of trim and door "from scratch."

Thanks. My plan is for 12" shelves which should work for all of SWMBO's cookbooks and cooking magazines. 16" should work for the base cabinets.

The main issue is that SWMBO and I don't visualize things the same way. She can't picture those dimensions in her head even when I stand there with a tape measure and show her what 12" and 16" is. You would not want her as a client. ;-) On the other hand, if you are longing for a great meal, she's the one to call.

I've decided that I am going to get some poster board from the dollar store and build a full scale mock-up of one unit so she can alter the dimensions before I put blade to wood. It'll protect me and keep me sane.

If you have a craft store nearby check out what they call gatorboard or gatorfoam. It's not cheap, but perfect for mockups.

replying to Puckdropper, Iggy wrote: No I'm not, Uselessnet's stealing my content and posting it on their bumbled service.

Ummm... you have that backwards, Bubba.

replying to -MIKE-, Iggy wrote: Says you, so prove it. I'm in my browser on a normal website, which proves you're both wrong and only responding to what Obtusenet has stolen.

From HomeMoaners terms of service, try and follow along.

The Service Description

HomeOwnersHub.com provides a discussion platform that may include local discussion forums as well as access via Web, RSS and other information technologies to Usenet discussion groups. HomeOwnersHub.com provides fully-featured two-way interface to Usenet that enables you to both view and contribute to existing discussions as well as create new ones.

You're lying but, then, I'm not telling anyone anything they don't already know.

Don't confuse the poor boy with facts.

pssst...you are embarrassing yourself.

It's HOH that puts and takes from usenet, not the other way around.

In addition, your BS about including context being outdated is just so wrong. I participate in both usenet groups as well as web-based forums. The subject matter ranges from automobiles to hardware technology to software to woodworking. All but a single one of those provides either automatic quoting or a "Reply With Quote" button. In the one forum that doesn't provide quoting, 99% of the users quote via cut and paste in order to retain context.

In addition, any decent email application, whether web based or local to a machine, includes the original email(s) for both Reply and Forward.

If you don't know this, then all of your claims of living in modern times are just BS. If you do know this, then you are just being a dick.

Either way, you are embarrassing yourself.

replying to FrozenNorth, Iggy wrote: Thank you. I'm on HOH's "platform" and you're not.

Well if you were on usenet think of all the other newsgroups you could argue on!