LOL! Are you SURE you can't use real horses? What if they're
nice and calm? Then the horses could do the moving and the
router could sit still! Lots easier than all that
Wayyy back when, I helped run a farm while the guy was in
hospital. He used Erie Mules, huge, gigantic, muscled animals
that were as gentle as a momma's breath. They could even
successfully back a 4-wheeled manure spreader down the length of
the barn by just hollering "Backa, backa, backa" at them til they
got where you wanted them. Then you continued shovelling.
Brought back memories ... when I got of the service, and besides music which
was kinda lean back then, I went back to shoeing horses, mainly because at
that point I didn't give a damn about doing anything else but chasing women
and raising hell, and it gave me ample opportunity to be worthless and do
Two of the stables I routinely worked at still used mules to pull the manure
wagons through the barns. I still have one of the mule collars, and until a
few years ago, my Dad still had one of the four wheel manure wagons laying
around his farm I scored when the stables closed, maybe still does.
Try being more careful. Any way that works is best. If it is
difficult to handle long boards, then dont' usethe router table, but
clamp a bit of wood as a freehand router guide.
Make mistakes. We all do. That's how we learn ...sometimes. Your
technique and attention to detail will improve immensely when you get
you next lumber bill.
I made a dado jig a while back, and while I liked its adjustability, I
was concerned over whether or not the rails were clamped flush to the
workpiece. That is, I was concerned that the depth of cut would vary
throughout the cut - most likely full depth at the edges and somewhat
less deep in the middle. The cause of this could be that the rails
flex a bit as you clamp them down on each side of the workpiece.
Does anyone here have the same concerns? I'm thinking of a slight
curve, like a clamping caul, to the rails. Someday. This post just
got me thinking.
Do you have your workpiece on a nice flat surface? Is your jig made
out of a stable material (i.e. MDF or Plywood)? I have to think, that
even if you were using warped wood in your jig, the weight of the
rotuer would help to eliminate some of that play.
No. You are working with warped wood. First plane it flat, and the
router will follow that path instead of a warped one. If you don't
have the proper tools you can't do a proper job. I've been there, so
I know both alternatives.
You need to take that router out of the table.
For years I didn't have a decent TS. My fence was terrible at best and
only cut 28" to the right of the blade. I used Pat Warner's technique
religiously after I saw a video on the net.
1. Lay your side pieces on a flat table.
2. Stand the shelf piece on the side.
3. Butt 2 pieces of MDF with factory edges on either side of the shelf.
4. Remove the shelf.
5. Chuck a Flush trim bit with a short cutting length into you router
and adjust the height for an appropriate dado.
6. Route a perfectly fitting Dado for that specific shelf piece.
The real trick here is to route the dados from the board that will
become both your side pieces, so the dados are parrell. In other
words, cut a panel to size that equals 2x 1 side (plus a litte extra
for fudge factor). Route your dados. Then cut the shelf pieces to
Of course, now that I have a decent TS and fence, I use a dado blade.
But I swore by that router method before I saved up enough quarters.
It really isn't easy to make a dado in a long board on a tablesaw.
It's possible, sure, but if it's longer than your table and wider than
a couple of feet, you're pretty much out of luck. Get a router with a
straightedge and you won't have a problem.
I ran into that problem when I was building shelving and needed 3/4"
dados every 5.5" throughout 10-foot boards. There wasn't any
clearance on either side of the tablesaw to make the cut, even if I
had been crazy enough to try to support it on both sides. I just
clamped the boards together, side-by-side, routed the dados so they
were identical on both sides, and bingo.
And umm disregard the note on the jig indicating which way to face the
router. That note was on the jig as a reminder when it was designed to be
used with a router guide bushing. With a top bearing bit the router can be
clocked or turned during the cut.
Construct a slotted jig for your router such that the router base
rides against sides on the jig. Make the jig such that it can be
securely clamped on the bookcase side. Once you have the jig built,
cutting perfect dados will be a snap. Using a dado blade in a table
saw is the easiest. Either method can produce perfect dadoes.
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