Best saw to cut 2.5" butcher block?

A normal circular saw with a normal 7 1/4" blade will cut about 2

Milwaukee 8 1/4" circular saw will cut right through it. Use a good straight edge. If you want to you can use a table saw but it has to be a good quality table saw. I am assuming this is a hardwood like maple? Use a new blade, even then you will still get some slight burning. Touch up with a sander.

Thanks for your responses!

I'm actually not sure what kind of wood it is....which I suppose speaks volumes about how much of a rookie I am.

I uploaded a photo if anyone would like to take a shot at identifying it for me (for better or worse).....

Thanks for your responses!

I'm actually not sure what kind of wood it is....which I suppose speaks volumes about how much of a rookie I am.

I uploaded a photo if anyone would like to take a shot at identifying it for me (for better or worse).....

That world be Maple and probably Hard/Rock Maple. I suggest a good and sharp blade.

Gorgeous piece. Probably either maple or birch.

Are the ends going to show once installed? What tools do you own now? I'm thinking about a circular saw, a belt sander, and a router. The piece has been stained and top coated. Do you know what the current finish is?

Two ends will show after installation. I'm not sure about the current finish, but I do intend to completely redo it.

I've got a decent belt sander and router, but my circular saw is pretty suspect. I can borrow a DeWalt (7.25"). Any risk (to the saw) in using it on this block?

No harm to the saw, but if you could borrow an 8" saw life would be easier. Recip saw or good hand saw?

Run all edges with a ball bearing router bit, not a deep cut,. I like the look of a chamfer bit, but a 1/4" round over would look good also. This will get all edges uniform and remove the "sharp" edges.

Watch out for the steel rods though.

" I've got a (lovely) piece of butcher block "

Look, if you are going to all the trouble to cut, refinish and install this bearof a counter top, why not take it to "the shop" and have a Pro check for steel "imbeds" :) and cut it to specs for you? You say tow ends will show - there are only two "ends." Do you mean one end and one side will show? If so, you can likely cut this yourself with a suspect Skill Saw and hide your errors (if any) with the walls!

If it is to fit "flus" to a wall, or two (as assumed, above) you will likely need to sand it to conform to the (irregular) wall surfaces and might want to UNDERCUT or BEVEL your cuts to better facilitate this step - another good job for a ProShop.

Bon chance et bin appitite

n Jul 28, 10:46 am, "TH" wrote:

Yes. Meant to say two sides, not ends.

I love the idea of routering the top to remove the sharp edges.

Thanks again for all the input!