Will a SCMS hold it's position if you tune it dead nuts to 90 degrees
and leave it there, or will it creep? I'm getting the sense that the
ideal situation would be to have a separate SCMS (CMS, MS) for 45s and
90s, as well as one you use for odd angles that you change the
adjustments on. I guess if there were a MS that had excellently
ground detents that were dead nuts at 90 and 45 every time you moved
it, that would be good too though. And much less expensive.
Does Starrett make a SCMS?
Are you doing finish trim, like baseboards, window casings and crown, where
you need to handle long lengths? If not, a shop-built sled on a well tuned
table saw, with a dedicated angle, works very well. Actually safer for
small pieces, and better backing, resulting in less tear-out.
If, on the other hand, you are routinely handling pieces to 16', that's a
different matter altogether. For trim work, I've been happy with the
accuracy of my DeWalt 12"CMS (not slider). Disclaimer: it stays put in my
shop, and doesn't routinely bounce around in the back of a pickup truck. I
would honestly say that most, if not all of the error accumulated using
that saw is due to my lack of patience and/or experience.
Large detents at standard angles, at least on the table dimension. I don't
routinely lay the blade over.
who really IS going to finish the bathroom trim by the weekend. I promise.
IME, you are worried about a non-existant problem. Good sliders are
dead accurate at 45 and 90, and they hold it forever, as near as I can
tell. I keep hearing about how an SCMS should be less than perfectly
accurate; in my experience, it just doesn't happen. Neither my
Hitachi nor my PC has ever been less than perfect at 90 or 45 degrees,
even after repeatedly switching back and forth between 45 and 90 many,
many times over the years. And it's really easy to tell; cut 2 pieces
on the same side of the saw and put the ends together. If you are
cutting flat, square stock, and you don't have a dead solid seam with
no gaps, and if you can't adjust the problem away or the problem comes
back after you tune it, you need a better saw.
That's good to hear. I like the idea of putting a really good "glue
line" rip blade on the TS and leaving it. Then just using the chopper
with a good zero-clearance fence for 90s and miters. It'll save time
But maaaaan would that thing be accurate. It would cut a much more 45
degree angle than any of the others for sure.
In related news, has anyone ever used anything like this -
http://tinyurl.com/2opb4 - for their glue-ups? And if you could get
that sucker vibrating, you'd have one hell of a face frame finish
sander. Whattaya think it'd cost to get it shipped to Syracuse, NY?
Honey.....I bought a new coffee table for you!!
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