I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past 15
years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
Teak wood contains oil. When stress joints are needed epoxy is not enough
because oil contained in the teak wood will not allow for a strong bonding.
Washing the wood with acetone will not remove all the oil from the teak. In
your case I would use SS screws and towels construction with epoxy. As
stated before, washing the teak with acetone prior to using epoxy is
recommended. I do not know your design. If you are using strips of 8/4
side by side to make a board I would use a long enough SS bolt through or a
threaded rod C'Bored on both side with teak plugs and epoxy.
I get very good results making teak plugs with a taper cutter. If not you
can buy standard teak plugs at your local marine store.
Use epoxy, and be sure to wipe the teak with acetone, just before
To all who took the time to reply to my post:
Thank you !!
I have not dismantled the old unit as I write, but I suspect that the
"dowels" we see on the outside are in fact "plugs" hiding some type of
mechanical fastening system. The advice of epoxy and stainless fastening
hardware takes the prize! We do need water resistance and structural
integrity for the heavy anchor. You all serve the group well. I will share
some before and after photos over the next week or so when we get it
completed. Thanks again!
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
About 1995, I did a glue up with biscuits on 3/4" thk. solid teak
hatch boards for the main hatch of my sailboat. Three angled boards
with one side continuously exposed to weather. Used titebond II with
no real confidence that I would get more than a few years out of the
boards. Sold the boat in '97 and, since I live 300 miles away, lost
contact. This past summer, the boat showed up at Bay Springs Marina
about 25 miles from my house so I asked the current owner if I could
come aboard to take a look at how my work had held up (I had done a
complete refit including an Imron paint job in '95). Those same hatch
boards were still in use and the glue was holding fine.
Titebond III might even be better, it wasn't around back then. Keep
in mind though, I'm not sure that it was supposed to work.
An anecdotal sample of one.
I have used both Titebond ll and lll. Like you I have made new main hatch
doors for my previous sailboat. I learned that Titebond ll and lll are good
above the water line. See http: //www.diybanter.com/showthread.php
However, for building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak my choice would be
epoxy reenforced with mechanical fastening devices. Because the bow pulpit
is subjected to the sailboat weight, windage, wave actions compounded by the
anchor, the length of the scope and other imponderable factors.
You could be right, depends on the design. If it sits on or in a
stainless steel structural grid with the chain roller attached to it
and that takes all the stress, the wood becomes just for looks. If
not, epoxy probably best bet.
Yep, cat/poly is bad stuff if you're not careful, I was fully and
appropriately safety equipped and, of course, this job was done
outside. I had already done a couple of trucks with it, so had some
experience. It is very easy to use but the vapors are not certainly
not fit for inhalation.
What I find amazing is that anyone could buy it back then and the body
shop supply places didn't even give you MSDS sheets or even warn you
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