I removed the carpeting for my house and had the original (white oak) wood
I also removed the baseboards and trashed them.
I'm looking for some advice on replacing the baseboards.
Anybody with a good eye for this kind of thing I would appreciate your
I am sure I have left out info that would be helpful so let me know and I'll
1) there really are no rules, other than whatever swmbo says is final.
2) as far as materials, white oak is an obvious one, if you want to
match your floors. but you might prefer contrasting with them, which
you could do with a different species or with stain. for even more
contrast you could use paint. see 1).
3) what style of molding to use is dependent on the style of the
house, the tastes of swmbo and your budget.
I have just finished installing some baseboard in our FR.
It originally had 2.5 inch (builder) stuff that just did not look
right - too small etc.
After almost 20 years, I got around to ripping all that
crap out. After some study, I settled on a simple solution
that we are very pleased with. I found Jay Silber's book
"Decorating with Architectural Trimwork" very
First, ran 1 x 6 poplar along the walls, then a simple
base cap on top of that. Total height is about 7 inches.
We painted ours, but you could use oak (say) and stain
if you wanted that look. Our floors are stained oak.
The nice thing is that the 1x6 does not have to follow the wall
exactly. since the base cap will contour nicely. Need to caulk
between the two.and add shoe moulding.
Got everything at HD.
Downside: SWMBO wants it throughout the house.
Upside: Need more tools.... :-)
Forgot to mention that the current (11/05) issue of Fine Homebuilding
(Taunton, same folks who put out Fine Woodworking) has an excellent article
on everything you would want to know about installing baseboard.
I would highly recommend that the OP track down a copy at a local newstand
as it should still be available.
And attached to the baseboard, but NOT the floor. The flooring needs
to move underneath the shoe.
Although in my parts, the shoe is typically stained / painted to match
the base rather than the floor. Probably a regional style thing.
"Ba r r y" wrote in message...
"Swingman" < wrote:
Unless, of course, it is in a kitchen with hardwood floors (a BIG thing in
high $ homes at the moment in this area) and you have "toe kick" drawers
installed as a cabinet feature ... then the floor guys will find a way to
nail it to the floor. :(
I typically use a 1x6 s4s board, 3/4" shoe, and some sort of 5/8" x
1-7/8" base. The shoe molding goes against the floor and bottom face of
the the 1x6, and the base sits on top of the 1x6, against the wall.
Cope all inside corners, miter the outside corners. The style of the
shoe will vary depending on the size and style of the room, with a
simpler version for a Mission or Craftsman decor, and more ornate stuff
for a Victorian style. The most ornate styles may even use a 4th part
between the s4s and shoe.
The shoe is flexible enough to cover any gaps between the floor and s4s,
the base will conform to undulations in the wallboard or plaster. 1x6
boards typically aren't that flexible.
Choice of wood depends on the rest of the room. If the molding is to be
painted, I prefer #1 common maple or birch over pine, as baseboards can
live a tough life vs vacuums, etc...
Of course, none of this will look right if the rest of the room is
southwestern decor. <G> Check your local library for home decorating,
architecture, or design books and magazines. They probably won't be in
the woodworking section. You're looking for photos of completed styles
from which to draw ideas. I've even gotten some decent ideas from
fashion catalogs sent to my wife. Some of the catalogs are photographed
in interesting locations.
Last thought: If you want to do truly high-end looking work, the
materials probably won't be at the BORGs. Look for local mills.
I recently completely renovated a bathroom (which started as a simple
repainting, but, well, you know how these things go)...
Anyway, one thing I did was reinstall some drywall which wasn't
installed properly when the house was built. At the same time I also
fixed some " wavy" drywall by applying multiple, very thin coats of
drywall compound at the base to about 7"-10" above the floor, then use
a straight piece of base to screed it perfectly flat.
After it was sanded and painted, I was able to install the base
without any gaps or unsightly gobs of caulking.
I am currently in the process of doing the exact same thing. As far as
what you use whether it't stained, unstained, painted, etc. depends on
your (wife's) tastes, how the home is decorated, etc. What ever you
use I would encourage using the taller baseboard. I replaced our
crappy 3 inch or whatever it was with 5 3/4". Looks so much better
than the other stuff.
"I wanted to be a carpenter, but just couldn't cope".
Thanks you, Thanks you!
I never dreamed I get these great resonses.
SWMBO is new to me but with a lot of help I figured it out.
I now call her swm(i)bo and she GETS pissed.
God I loved married life.
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