All you electric motor heads out there: help!
I have a delta 28-280 bandsaw with a 1hp motor and a timberwolf 1/2" 3
tpi blade. I was cutting some 3" redwood when I noticed smoke escaping
from the cabinet. Opened it up and applied the vacuum to the ports on
the motor (there was no sawdust accumulation anywhere on the motor). I
gave it a bit of a rest and finished the job at hand. No more smoke but
now a stench resembling burnt insulation. At no time did the motor
casing feel hot to the touch.
Thought I would impose on some experts before I started dismantling
If you are smelling burnt insulation, it is only a matter of time
before the motor is history.
If you load the motor to full capacity, expect motor to die quickly.
Sounds like you either don't have an overload relay or it is
Time to open the piggy bank
On Wed, 15 Oct 2008 18:48:29 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
I suppose that depends on the definition of "full capacity". I would
not expect a continuous duty motor rated at "X" HP to die quickly if
used to drive an "X" HP load.
Personally, I'd change that statement slightly to read "If you load
the motor beyond its service rating, expect the motor to die quickly".
In this case, it starts right up.
Just for the heck of it, I have been looking for 1hp 1ph 1725 motors.
Not that many around and Leeson seems to have a bad reputation.
McMaster-Carr seems to be a good vendor. Any other ideas out there?
Got the motor out and noticed a lot of sticky goop (whoa! technical
term!) oozing out from the capacitor cover. Sure enough, the cap lost
its goop (exgoopuinated?). Some of it got into the innards which is
what caused the smoke and stench. Sent an email off to the manufacturer
(Aerovox Corp) to see what can be done if anything. Will keep you posted.
According to their website, it's made from soybeans. Honest. I didn't
look for a complete list of ingredients for this stuff. It is a clear,
very sticky substance that requires mineral spirits to clean up. And
the bandsaw and presumably the motor are maybe 10 years old.
If the voltage and capacity printed on the case of the defunct
capacitor is legible you should be able to get a replacement locally
for (guessing) under $10. It's been a while since I bought a start
capacitor, but as I recall they are fairly inexpensive. They come in
many different physical sizes and shapes, so you'll need to match
physical size as well as electrical ratings.
If you decide to replace the cap yourself, you should be sure the
centrifugal switch that cuts the capacitor in and out of the circuit
is functional. That switch operates to take the capacitor off line
when the motor reaches about 75% (IIRC) of rated RPM. Since the start
capacitor is not rated for continuous duty, if the switch doesn't
operate, a minute or so after the motor starts, you'll need to replace
the capacitor again.
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