Can anyone tell me if a professional woodworking shop can rip a piece of wood measuring 9" x 2" x 8' down to a 9" x .75" x 8'? Does this type of rip have a unique name?
Thanks!
- posted
16 years ago
woodworking/millwork question
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- posted
16 years ago
Yeah, it's called "resawing". There are a couple of ways -- bandsaw would be most common, particularly if it is a piece of hardwood, not just construction lumber so could use the cutoff as veneer stock, etc.
Alternatively, if it weren't, it could just be run through the thickness planer.
But, to answer the question as posed, most any decent-sized shop should be able to handle that w/ no problem.
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16 years ago
On 4/8/2008 4:31 PM Crabshell spake thus:
I think what you're describing is usually called "resawing", and is typically done on a bandsaw. However, that's quite a thin slice you're asking for there, kind of the equivalent of using a big-ass cheese slicer on a 2" board. Very difficult to get a good cut. (It would probably need to be run through a planer after resawing.) What are you using this for? I assume it's not cheap pine and that you can't (or don't want to) run down to the lumber yard and get an 8-foot 1x10.
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16 years ago
Why is 3/4" such a thin slice?
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16 years ago
On 4/8/2008 5:01 PM RicodJour spake thus:
I guess it's not really. And to reply to another comment up above, yes, I would say this would want to be done on a good 18" or larger saw.
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16 years ago
David Nebenzahl wrote in news:47fc05e4$0$19807$ snipped-for-privacy@news.adtechcomputers.com:
It's Ipe wood and it's for a decorative plaque. The finished plaque needs to measure 8.5"h x 17"w x 1/2"d (my original post said 3/4"). The only Ipe I have found online that accomodates those dimensions is 9"h x 2"d, which is way too thick. The finish has to be pristine being that it's decorative.
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16 years ago
Dave Bugg wrote: ...
It's far more difficult on a ts than bs (of adequate capacity which any good shop will have). 9" resawing is beyond the reach of a 10" ts.
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16 years ago
Crabshell wrote: ...
If you're in a moderate or large area I'd say there would be good chance a shop would be able to come up w/ something far closer to your needs as starting point.
Does it _have_ to be ipe? There are lots of other dark woods. What other requirements?
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16 years ago
You must be kidding. I'd do that on my Jet 14" saw all day long and have near perfect cuts ready for the planer to finish. I'll even do it for free if I can have the other 1"+ left over. Want .25? I can do that too. Want .125? Yep, I've done it, as can anyone with a decent blade and well set up saw.
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16 years ago
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:A8VKj.1369$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr19.news.prodigy.net:
Heck, I can do it with my Husky knife :-)
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- posted
16 years ago
Does it have to be one piece? You often pay a premium for wider boards but they are available. If you can't find a board wide enough, you can glue two or more pieces with a perfect joint. Walnut and cherry would be nice also and on the darker side that you want. 4/4 rough stock will finish at 3/4" easily.
This will give you an idea of what is available. Keep in mind, it is random with x 10" long and you must buy the full board.
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Your best bet is to find a local woodworker that would do this for you. Many of us would do it for little more than the cost of materials. If it is from a wood I don't have or need, I'd charge you for the full board that I'd have to buy or you can supply it.
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16 years ago
On 4/8/2008 6:41 PM Edwin Pawlowski spake thus:
OK, I believe you. But do you still say you can do all this, now that the OP has told us that the wood is ipe? That stuff is harder than hell.
If the answer is "yes", then you must have one finely-tuned bandsaw, and I congratulate you on that.
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- posted
16 years ago
Really? I haven't had a problem with it. Just flip the stock. I do it all the time. Much quicker, no issue with blade tracking.
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16 years ago
Powermatic Model 66 Table Saw Model: 66 specs Blade Diameter (in): 10 Arbor Diameter (in): 5/8 Max. Depth of Cut (in): 3-1/8 (in).
For a 9" piece that leaves you w/ 2" in the middle you now have to do with something else (like a bandsaw, maybe? :) ).
W/ a decent bandsaw and a resaw blade, blade drift is no issue.
Post this question on rec.woodworking and I'd bet the bandsaw would be the choice 10:1.
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- posted
16 years ago
This can be done on a large bandsaw or one equipped with riser blocks. This kind of cut is called a "resaw." The result is book-matched pieces.
A tablesaw can rip this cut by flipping the stock, keeping the same side against the fence, then a handsaw can cut out the remaining center. With a 10" blade you'll have a 1" center to remove.
Another method is to use a surface planer. With this method much of the wood is wasted and you get just one piece.
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16 years ago
On 4/9/2008 1:23 AM Dave Bugg spake thus:
Yes, but ...
I agree with whoever said that if one were to post this on a woodworking group, the answer would be "bandsaw" 10-to-1. It's just a better tool for the job; much smaller kerf, and therefore less wood waste *and* less power required for the cut, and probably less dangerous too (remember that ipe is really hard wood). Yes, potential problems with tracking, but that's what tuning a bandsaw (and learning how to steer wood through it) is all about.
Of course, if one doesn't have a bandsaw, as I don't ... hell, you could rip from both sides on your table saw, then handsaw the remaining inch or so in the middle.
Or you could do it like Noah's carpenters, sawing the whole thing by hand ...
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16 years ago
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:A8VKj.1369$GO4.1197 @newssvr19.news.prodigy.net:
You have the job, and you can keep the left overs!
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- posted
16 years ago
Of course you're right. For some reason, I kept thinking 6" instead of 9" for the rip. It was one of those kinda evenings.
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16 years ago
The operation is resawing, as most agreed here. Then you need to run it in a big ass jointer to get it flat, a planer to get it to even dimensional thickness and a final pass in the drum sander to get it smooth.
But if you have the skills of the late Dick Proenneke, all you need is a hand saw!
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- posted
16 years ago
I got curious because this thread has gone so long and, never having heard of "ipe wood", I did a little googling. Ipe is not just a piece of wood, apparently. It is exceedingly hard and also difficult to finish. If you do a Google search on ' ipe wood "custom milling" ' you will probably find what I found. Just for the sake of getting experienced wooddworkers, I'll post to rec.woodworking.
I had some oak custom cut and routed edges once, for a bargain price. The jobber told me afterward that he burned up several router bits, and would have charged me more had he known how tough it would be. He did fine work, and stuck to the price he quoted me.